Leni Riefenstahl’s registration of the Nuba tribe

6 May

Leni RiefenstahlThere is already so much written and said about Leni Riefenstahl, but everybody is equally impressed by her photographs and films.

My friend wanted to go to Leni Riefenstahl’s funeral (she passed away at the age of 101, september 8,2003), because he was a great admirer of her work and wanted to pay his respect to her and I had no clue who he was talking about… I bought the dvd ‘The wonderful, horrible life of Leni Riefenstahl’ by Ray Muller and got fascinated by the person and her work. If you want to have a great overview of her life and work, watch this movie!

Leni Riefenstahl was an extreme aesthetics, a German woman aesthetics around the time of WWII, when Germany was reigned by the very disturb madman Adolf Hitler, who got interested in her work and her aesthetic view on people. She was so eager to work, make movies and photographs, she took up his offer to work for him and that was the biggest mistake she would ever make and had to pay for this mistake the rest of her life. Her infamous, brilliant documentaries Triumph des Willens and Olympia got her associated with the Third Reich and she spent the rest of her life trying to get away from this association.

After WWII she lived with her mother in a little appartement in Germany for years. In the 1960s Riefenstahl became interested in Africa from Hemingway’s book and from the photographs of George Rodger. She travelled to Sudan and lived with the Nuba tribe for years. Her registration of the Nuba tribe is mesmerizing.

This photograph by George Rodger shows two muscular wrestler of a Nuba tribe in Kordofan, Southern Sudan. It was taken in 1949, during Rodger’s journey across Africa which he made to escape the traumas of the Second World War. The impact of this photograph has a melancholy ending. This famous Despite Roger’s unwillingness to reveal the whereabouts of the tribe to German filmmaker and photographer Leni Riefenstahl, the latter discovered their location some fifteen years later. In the 1970s, her photographs of the Nuba people were published throughout the world and attracted more people to the area. The Sudanese government subsequently encouraged the oppression and displacement of Nuba tribes because they wrongly suspected them of unified alliance to the Sudan People’s Liberation Army.

The Nuba tribe by Leni Riefenstahl

.

.

Leni Riefenstahl

In her 70s she wanted to film and photograph the underwater world and had to lie about her age to get a scuba diving certification . Years ago I found the book Jardins de Corail….

.

Leni Riefenstahl’s life would have been totally different if she had never been associated with the Third Reich (after WWII she was arrested but released without any charges).. She would  be remembered by her beautiful work, innovations as a filmmaker and as the greatest female filmmaker of the twentieth century.

Fashion faux pas (part 9)

29 Apr

Must be 15 years ago, I wanted a new agency to represent me and I made an appointment with the one I prefered the most.

I have very sensitive skin on my thighs and tummy and therefore I cannot wear a pantyhose. Hold-ups were not for sale yet, so I mostly chose to wear stocking-socks under my outfits. Not very charming when you have ‘big legs’ and definitely not fashionable those days. I was pretty happy maxi skirts and dresses were in fashion and nobody would notice my stocking-socks.

The day of the appointment I choose my outfit for the occasion carefully: a dark blue, maxi, pinstriped skirt, a t-shirt with a cute print and tough shoes. I was quiet nervous when I rang the doorbell and entered the building. Somebody opened the door of the office I had to be and I stepped in, not knowing they just polished the floor with wax……

I slipped and slided over the floor and ended sitting on my bum my legs widened in v-shape, my skirt halfway at my thighs, showing my skincoloured stocking-socks….aahhhhrrrggg.

Elmer Batters (inspired Steven Meisel in may 2008)

29 Apr

“If toe sucking, foot licking, stockings, stockings and stockings are your thing, then Elmer Batters is your man.” Fetish Times, London

 
Years ago I found a book with photographs of Elmer Batters (1919-1997). The book intrigued me and I bought it. Elmer Batters was a pioneer fetish photographer who specialized in capturing artful images of women with emphasis on stockings, legs and feet. I do understand what it is to have a shoe fetish for I have one, but don’t have a clue what it is to have a foot fetish. A lot of the times feet are ‘unpleasant’ to look at, except for the feet of people who take really good care of them. To get aroused by feet is not something that would happen to me, maybe that’s the reason why it intrigues me?

Legs that Dance to Elmer’s Tune   

Introduction by Dian Hanson, Editor, Leg Show Magazine

Leg Lovers Unite!

The dean of leg men and his art

On June 25th, 1997 Elmer Batters died. I still find it hard to  believe. In ten years of working together I’d seen him leap every hurdle a bad heart and advancing years could throw up. He’d come to seem immortal. The amazing thing is that this shy, self-effacing man managed to live 77 years with a hole in his heart, even serving on a submarine during WWII  and going on to become the greatest foot photographer of all time.

Of course, in his early years he was called a leg photographer. Foot fetishism was completely in the closet back in the 1950s when Elmer took up the camera. He was acclaimed back then for his photo’s of women in black seamed stockings and garter belts. Unlike the other leg art photographers of the time Elmer often posed his models sans shoes, however, sneakily including his favorite body part. He couldn’t control his passion for the foot, didn’t want to, even though he knew it was socially unacceptable, and possibly perverse. like any true artist he was driven to express his emotions in his work, and what came through in Elmers’s masterpieces was ardent footlove. Before long, the censors took notice. it wasn’t if it were illegal to depict feet. He was breaking no laws. Nonetheless, his genius made the foot seem provocative, erotic. Viewers could plainly see careful posing and lighting of feet in his photo’s, the loving attention to the curve of the arch and sharply pointed or spread toes. The spread toes really gave him away. Such odd thing to ask of your model! Why, in some photos the model was lifting het foot, spreading her toes, and aiming it right at the camera, as if she were inviting the viewer to do something … unspeakable.

They arrested Elmer for publishing his magazines Man’s favorite Pastime and Black Silk Stockings, charging him with obscenity, not for the model’s bare breasts, but for their feet. “They said what I was doing with the stockinged feet was perverted“, he told me. “I asked them what exactly was perverted about it and they couldn’t tell me. It only proves that feet are sexy, because if something about my foot photos hadn’t got to them they wouldn’t have come after me”.

They hounded Elmer and his family until he pulled out of publishing, retreating to what he liked best anyway – photographing beautiful legs and feet. From then on he left the marketing to tougher types. Through the 60s and 70s, on into the mid-80s, Elmer perfected his foot photography. He developed his five light technique, wherein he grouped five tungsten lights – never flash – around model’s legs and feet to outline every curve and bring out the stocking shine. He also developed strong ideas about perfect leg and foot, and seldom photographed models who didn’t conform to his standard of beauty.

For Elmer this meant a fuller leg than is fashionable now, thick in thigh, narrow at the knee and curvy in calve, tapering to small, plump foot. He like his feet short and relatively wide, with a high shapely arch and fat, straight, lively toes capable of his trademark spread shot. “When a gal spreads her toes it’s as if she’s inviting you for a sniff of a lick’, he once confided to me. This was not an easy thing for Elmer to confess. As much as he adored feet and lavished his love on them photographically, he was acutely sensitive about his fetish. He often told me that while he considered attraction to feet normal, he had never discussed his desire to sniff or lick them with any woman. Or Man, for that matter. He always felt alienated from other men because in their discussions about what made women attractive he never dared admit the part he liked best, “Especially on the submarine the fellows spent a lot of time talking about breasts and bottoms and legs and they’d ask me what I liked and learned to lie. I came to think I was the only fellow like me in the world. I thought pretty bad about myself, like I must be pretty sick“, he told me.

So, like so many before him, Elmer sought to explore and vanquish his demons through his art. He focused his lens on the thing he most wanted to conceal from the world – his footlove – and when his work was accepted, felt himself accepted as well. His arrest for creating perverse images could have ended his career, confirming his worst fears, but by then he had uncovered a world of fellow footlovers, and he went on as much for them as for himself.

 

No one before or since has matched Elmer’s posing of female foot. I will admit that I’ve urged photographers to give me an Elmer foot pose and none get it right. Elmer said he posed the models’ feet with his own hands, but I do that too and never do get an Elmer. As a true genius, Elmer is inimitable.

Elmer was blessed to achieve his highest career goals in his last two years of life. The publication of his first Taschen photo book, From The Tip Of The Toes To The Top Of The Hose, at last brought him recognition outside the fetish world. Initially suspicious, sure he was going to be ill-used as he had been so often in the past, seeing the finished volume was his greatest triumph. He said over and over that it was like a dream, what he’d always wanted. Sadly Elmer died as this second volume was being prepared.

Elmer was hugely excited about the release of this second book. He talked with childlike glee of being on television in Germany and his popularity in Europe. He was bitterly disappointed when his doctor told him he couldn’t travel overseas without open heart surgery – and then cancelled the surgery due to Elmer’s fragile health. Still, Elmer was optimistic in our last conversation, saying they were adjusting his medication and he felt better than he had in months. We spoke of doing new photo shoots for Leg Show, with the help of an assistant who would arrange the lights and pose the model to his specifications. The posing of the feet would be left to Elmer’s own talented hands. When I called to follow up I learned my old friend had died quietly in his sleep.

It’s hard to grasp that I’ll never speak to Elmer Again, That we’ll never again discuss theories of leg art and foot fetishism, or simply share affection for each other. Thankfully we don’t have to say goodbye to his art. His genius will live on in these collections of his work, inspiring and consoling a new generation of footlovers with his lifelong homage to the lovely, lowly foot.

 
 
Elmer Batters and his models
What were the girls paid? Fifty dollars a day.
How did you find your models? Well, the motel I’d be saying in. I’d tell the bellhop who I was and that I’d be interested in finding someone I could shoot, and I’d get call girls’ to come in and shoot. Most of them would rather screw. And I’d tell them I’d rather get pictures. Some of these models would ask me if I was queer.
What about plump Caruska, the fabled model on the backyard swing? I went to Pretty Girl International on Hollywood Boulevard. She was sitting there and nobody wanted to use her because she was too heavy. The minute I saw her… There are so many guys who like a thigh and a face like that, and she had the legs from the tip of her toes to the top of her hose. Every time you used her she’d change her look.
Elmer Batters in a conversation with Eric Kroll, Palos Verdes (CA)

 

For Vogue Italia May 2008, Steven Meisel photographed a story with Eva Mendes as his model. This story is a tribute to Elmer Batters.

Eva%20Mendes

Fashion faux pas (part 8)

22 Apr

I had been on a make up-job in Brighton (England) for a week and before flying home I went (window-)shopping in London. Walking around I found myself near Harrods, the expensive department store and wanted to go in, when I got stopped by one of the security men. I wasn’t allowed to enter the store because I was dressed too provocative… The security guy told me about this new policy at the door; women (and men) dressed too sexy weren’t allowed into the store.

But I wasn’t dressed too sexy, wearing Marlene Dietrich trousers and a Ann DeMeulenmeester t-shirt. The problem seamed to be my belt, a beautiful barbed wire belt I bought in New York. If I was willing to take of the belt and leave it at the security desk in front of the store, I would be allowed  into the store.

Thanks, but I didn’t feel like playing this game and I left, quiet pissed ofcourse….

 Harrods

The creation of the Ziggy Stardust look…. (part 2)

22 Apr

Last week I published part 1 of the Ziggy Stadust creation about the make up and hair designs for this stage persona. This post is about his clothes, designed by Kansai Yamamoto and the influence of Angela Barnett, the wife of Bowie those days.

The Ziggy Stardust costumes      (by Kansai Yamamoto)

Kansai Yamamoto (1944) was the first Japanese fashion designer to hold a collection show in London in ’71. This smart move brought him an international spotlight and introduction to stars as David Bowie and Elton John..

Born just after the Second World War, Kansai Yamamoto was raised in a new Japan. Studying both engineering and English at university, he would eventually incorporate the futuristic, the imaginative and the technologically innovative and channel them into fashion, his creative medium of choice.

In many ways Kansai’s unique output would become the signature of the rebirth of his home country. If you look at the fantastic creations he made for David Bowie’s alter ego’s Ziggy Stardust and Aladdin Sane it’s clear his artistry is hugely influenced by not only the glam and glitter of the 1970s but also by pre-war Japan as well, from silken kimonos and Kabuki to the ornate armor of the Samurai, his exuberant designs contrast with the Zen-like simplicity and deconstructed silhouettes favored later by designers such as Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake.

In the 1970s and 1980s Kansai Yamamoyo is one of the leaders in Japanese contemporary fashion. He was the first to go international and opened ‘Boutique Kansai’ in mayor cities around the world including Paris, Milan, New York, Madrid and London.

The in 2010 unveiled Skyliner train, that connects Japan’s Narita Airport with central Tokyo, is also a design by Kansai Yamamoto.

 Hello! Fashion: Kansai Yamamoto, 1971–1973 ,  filmed tour over the exhibition in Philadelphia Museum of art

The Ziggy Stardust influence  (by Angela Burnett/Angie Bowie)

Before Ziggy Stardust was created, David Robert Jones performed under his artist name David Bowie (named after the Bowie knife). David knew he wanted to be a singer-songwriter-performer from an early age on. He met Angela Burnett in London through a mutual friend, Chinese-American record executive Dr. Calvin Mark Lee  in 1969. A year later they got married.

Angela had an outrageous character, she embraced everything that was going on in London those days. David Bowie needed a person like her to inspire him and help him change his image. When they met David still looked like a longhaired bohemian.

Little by little David started to change,  he also announced he was bi-sexual, this definitely also under influence of Angie, who lived a bi-sexual lifestyle too. David became more experimental with his looks and got nicknamed ‘Wowie Bowie’. Angie loved their appearances together and they even did a fashion shoot with fashion photographer Terry O’Neill.

                                                                         

   

On May 30, 1971 David and Angie had a son they named Duncan Zowie Haywood Jones. Zowie later preferred to be called Joe and nowadays works under the name Duncan_Jones (he directed his first movie ‘Moon’ in 2009).

In the D.A. Pennebaker concert film Ziggy Stardust: The Motion Picture Angela appears backstage. I saw the movie years ago and remember the part with Angie vividly because she behaved so annoyingly.

David and Angie separated after eight years of marriage and divorced on February 8, 1980. Angie was disappointed the marriage ended and in 1993 she wrote a bestseller Backstage passes, Life On The Wild Side with David Bowie, a book in which she doesn’t speak well about David. Her settlement was 300.000,- pounds if she didn’t speak about her life with David for ten years.

The movie Velvet Goldmine (1998) by Todd Haynes is about the Glam Rock years based on the life of David Bowie, but it’s not the real story!!