Archive by Author

Barbie’s influence in fashion

26 Feb

My mum told me I was 4 years old, when I spent my summer holiday at a sewing course for kids. Actually I was to young to join this course, but because my sister went there ánd I showed a lot of talent, I was allowed to enter.

I started out sewing by hand and I made my first accessories, a pair of mittens, black cotton over the palm of my hand and white faux fur on top. I was so proud. I wish I still had them. After a few weeks I was allowed to sew on a machine, one you had to turn a cart-wheel by hand to make it work. Soon I didn’t want to do anything else, but sit behind a sewing machine….

The course ended with a competition, make an outfit for Barbie. I already liked a bit of drama, so I made an enormous bridal dress for my Barbie and I won. That’s how Barbie became my first muse.

When I decided to write a post about Barbie, I didn’t know which direction to go, because there’s so much written about this phenomenon, but googling pictures of Barbie it became clear to me I had to stick to the high fashion side of Barbie and her influence on fashion.

Winter ’94/’95 Martin Margiela was inspired by doll’s clothes for his collection and suddenly you looked at Barbie and Ken in a whole different way. Margiela’s collection featured well-known classics like a pair of jeans, a cardigan, BB checked shirts and a pea coat, made in human proportions the way they were simplified for dolls. As an accessory he made lager than life army identification dogtag.

Through the years lots of designers and stylists were asked to dress Barbie. I like to stick to the latest designs, like Maison Margiela’s and Gareth Pugh’s tribute to Barbie and Ken at Barbie’s 50th birthday celebration and Comme Des Garçons’ Barbie in floral print. Hermes made her bags, Christian Louboutin shoes and boots, Diana Von Furstenberg a travel outfit and Stephen Jones a hat collection….

Barbie also has a shoe fetish and does love heels. In her shoe collection even a pair of Vivienne Westwood Dragon shoes for Melissa….

I guess a lot of people would love to have some items from Barbie and Ken’s wardrobe, I certainly would! Like a Barbie duffel coat, Brigitte Bardot jeans or her vintage look sweater. And for men a Ken’s t-shirt or cardigan… Maybe H&M could do a ‘Barbie & Ken evergreens’ collection, I am sure it would be an incredible success!

Barbie went through many fashion changes, she started in sixties clothes, wore a lot of haute couture, was dressed by the famous designers, had her disco period, even resort collections and nowadays she dresses in high fashion. In a couple of weeks Barbie will celebrate her 53rd birthday, I know because she’s a year older than me and she still rocks (we both do…)!

Barbie even inspired the famous painter Johannes Vermeer for his ‘girl with a pearl earring’…. ;-D

Fashion,Future & Music

19 Feb

My friend, one of the first stylists to work for Dutch  ELLE magazine (nowadays fashion director for Dutch Vogue magazine), was asked to do something special at the party celebration of the 20th anniversary of ELLE. She called me and asked if I would work with her on this project. The theme was Fashion & Future and we decided to make a short movie. It would be the first time for us to work on film, but we had worked on so many photographed editorial stories together already, we knew we could do it. Talking about Fashion & Future, we came up with the idea, children are the future and the children we wanted to film had to represent famous fashion designers and fashion icons.

I asked Eddy de Clercq, who has been responsable for the music at shows and performances of  Viktor&Rolf  the first 10 years, if we could use a piece of music he created for the performance ‘Paris-Tokyo’ by V&R.

The making of this short movie was a great experience and again I want to thank all children and grown-ups, who collaborated with us, for their time and enthusiasm ! I still love it….

Jeffrey Campbell

19 Feb

I have a huge shoe-fetish… for sure. My taste is quiet diverse, from very girly to heavily proportioned shoes, but they need to have high heels or be wedges… Thankfully I can walk on all heels like others walk on sneakers. Ofcourse I would love to buy all of the most beautiful designer pairs, but I can’t afford it ánd there are many non-designer brands,which make amazing shoes and give me as much pleasure to wear as the expensive high fashion designs.

A couple of years ago I discovered a brand called Jeffrey Campbell. It was the first brand I found, that made a lot of wedges, even before wedges became very fashionable. I bought my first pair of J (effrey) C (ampbell) booties in a shop in Amsterdam. The next season I went back to this store, to see if they were selling the new JC collection. Over the years I bought quiet some pairs. But because in Amsterdam not many people buy this brand, it’s difficult for the store to stock up the whole collection. Hallelua for internet-shopping…

The brand Jeffrey Campbell is about 10 years on the market and comes from the heart of Los Angeles. Over the years JC has become a footwear brand well-known in the USA. The small family owned fashion forward footwear label is already available across Asia,Canada, Australia,The UK, New Zealand and has become more available in Europe.

Sometimes the brand gets inspiration from high fashion houses, but also from artists and movie characters. They are selling heelless shoes, a bit like the ones designed by Noritaka Tatehana (ashame Lady Gaga wears these all the time, for this makes me nót want to wear them)….  http://noritakatatehana.com/biography.html

Another inspiration is Edward Scissorhands, the movie character so brilliantly played by Johnny Depp

Vivienne Westwood is definitely also a source of inspiration.

A tribute was made to the famous Salvatore Ferragamo shoes, with the coloured platforms. 

And some Viktor&Rolf

And a tribute to one of my favorite painters, Jackson Pollock.

And some other shoes and boots of the brand…

You can buy Jeffrey Campbell at www.solestruck.com . They sell almost the complete collection. Don’t get derived by the lesser designs of the brand!!!

Amazing commercial featuring Zombie Boy

12 Feb

An art-director I work with, send me a link to this commercial…  Ine,thanks! The best I’ve seen in a very long time.

Dutch wax fabrics & African graphics in fashion

10 Feb

Ditch wax fabrics

For some time now African patterns have inspired designers. It’s understandable, because these patterns are gorgeous and so different from any other folklore fabric. The beautiful combination of bright colours and the big, repeating graphics are so authentic. Some graphics are based on everyday objects as alarm clocks, coffee pots, heeled shoes, umbrella’s, mirrors, leafs, laptops, even buildings. Others are geographic or almost child-like drawings.

Some original Vlisco patterns:

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Vlisco

Lots of people  think these fabrics are made in Africa, but actually they originally come from Holland, where the most famous wax print company still is based in Helmond. Vlisco is the name of this company and the founder of these fabrics. Vlisco made the wax printed fabrics as a knock-off of Indonesian batik fabrics, but that didn’t work out. It found its way to Africa instead and Vlisco became and still is the most important and original Dutch Wax company.

In some African counties it’s considered very chique and high-class to wear Vlisco fabrics from head-to-too and its patterns are often copied by others fabric manufactures. There are even counterfeiters trying to pass their fabrics as genuine Vlisco… To make faking their products less easy, Vlisco produces limited one-time runs of their prints.

Guaranteed Real Dutch Wax Print

The core element in Wax Print is of course the wax. Using two deep engraved copper rollers, with the mirror image of the design, the two sides of the cotton fabric are printed with a pattern of melted wax, hence the name Wax Print. The fact that the cloth is printed on both sides enables you to wear the product either side. This is the true sign of a quality wax print. Following this, the cloth is immersed in a bath of dye, often Indigo, that penetrates into the areas that are not covered with wax. After the wax has been washed off in varying stages, a negative image of the printed pattern remains on the cloth. This intricate wax printing process results in unique effects that makes the product so outstanding. In fact, not one single centimetre of fabric is identical to the other!   www.vlisco.com

Designers working with the African fabrics are not only African, like Duro Olowu, Dries van Noten is working with African prints for years already.

Duro Olowu  

Duro Olowu

Duro Olowu

Dries van Noten

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dries van noten

This summer Burberry Prorsum has found its way to these fabrics/patterns, also Miu Miu and Consuelo Castiglioni, designer of Marni, has used African prints for the H&M collection which will land in stores on March 8th.

Burberry Prorsum

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Marni for H&M 

Marni for H&M

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Stella Jean a/w 2014

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For his Spring/Summer collection 2009, Junya Watanabe combined the African prints with faded, torn-up jeans. I love this collection!

Junya Watanabe

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Some years ago I was visiting New York. I brought my (then) favorite dress, a simple model I made from Dutch wax fabric, bright yellow coloured with a repeating green fish pattern. In Amsterdam nobody looks up when you wear African patterned fabric, but in New York it provoked some people, specially Afro-Americans. They gave me spontaneous thumbs up or complimented me for wearing something so typically African. It surprised me, coming from a multi-culti community where clothes from different backgrounds are worn by all. I hope it becomes more habitual in America too….if you know what I mean.

MMKA exhibition:  Six Yards Guaranteed Dutch Design

29 January — 6 May 2012
As early as 1846 Vlisco served the West and Central African market with Dutch Wax textiles. From 29 January through 6 May, 2012, the Museum voor Moderne Kunst Arnhem will present Six Yards Guaranteed Dutch Design, an exhibition about how Vlisco’s Dutch textiles became a part of various West African cultures and found their way into international fashion, the visual arts, and photography.

www.mmkarnhem.nl