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Fashion design upside down

8 Jan

Designers used to inspire us what to wear, but no longer, because fashion has become about giving the people what they want. Fashion design has gone upside down!

A while ago I watched a David Bowie documentary, in which he talked about his mainstream period, when he wrote songs as ‘Modern love’, ‘Let’s dance’ and ‘China girl’. He said; if you want to make a lot of money, you have to give the people what they want (after some time, this way of working made him feel creatively bankrupt) and  that is what’s happening in fashion at the moment! No longer is fashion about designing, but it’s about making lots of money.

First brands did anything to become well-known (shocking campagnes,outrages designs,billboards on every corner of the street and hiring famous designers), so their names were buzzing and people who couldn’t afford to buy the clothes, were at least triggered to buy the perfumes, bath oils and soaps. Than accessories like shoes and bags became an important trade income (and still is) and now it’s the clothes they bring on the market, that have to push up sales to extreme heights.

To get huge sales, they have to be sure people are going to buy the clothes and there it is: giving the people what they want!To understand what it is they want, designers look at what people wear already…and bring these items on the market, but with their famous label sewn in. They bring T-shirts with their logos largely printed on the front or vintage looking graphics, ripped and bleached jeans, inspired by bikers, vintage army-look and all this for outrages prices! A few seasons ago, Balmain ‘launched’ the bleached and ripped skinny jeans for about €2.000,- and these sold out in no time. What is new about a ripped and bleached pair of jeans?!

Ofcourse there are still designers going for creativity, but fashion has suffered a lot from this mainstream way of working, like it suffered from brands as H&M, Zara, Topshop and Bershka, who copy designers largely and therefore make it less tempting to buy ‘the real thing’. A reason for designers to make special collections for H&M, so they can at least profit from the brand, that copies them…..!?Fashion upside down?

Video might have killed the radio star, mainstream thinking and pressure from important investors have made fashion design creatively bankrupt!

My inspiration

8 Jan

Someone ones gave me a horoscope of the exact date and time of my birth and a lot it said was true. The only thing I didn’t understand, was a statement of me being a voyeur. This stayed with me for some time and then it hit me… I am a voyeur, because I always read biographies and most of the movies and documentaries I watch are also. They inspire me.

The movie that took me by surprise and still is my favorite; Basquiat by Julien Schnabel. The first time I saw it, I cried, something I seldom do at the movies.

Jean-Michel Basqiuat was an unknown graffiti artist in New York, still sleeping in a cardboard box on Tomskin Square, when he saw Andy Warhol and a well-known art dealer entering a restaurant, followed them and offered to sell them some of his sketches. Soon after, Basqiuat became the talk of the town.

His paintings sold for huge amounts of money and Basquiat, the Jimi Hendrix of the art scene, started living the rock ‘n roll lifestyle with sex and drugs to the excess. He also briefly dated Madonna.

But Basquiat never came to terms with his fame and phenomenal success. He hated being the first black artist, who became famous and succesful. He started doubting his friends and his drug abuse got to the point everybody feared for his life. Andy warhol, who was his true friend, tried to convince him to get of drugs, but failed. At the age of 27 Jean-Michel died of an overdose.

Julian Schnabel, a friend of Basquiat, captured his life in a beautiful epic. Jeffrey Wright touches me deeply in the role of Basquiat. He really gets under my skin and that’s probably why the movie had (and still has) such an impact on me. The support cast features Gary Oldman,Dennis Hopper,David Bowie,Christopher Walken and Willem Dafoe.  It’s first movie I noticed Benicio del Toro in. I must have missed The Usual suspects?!And the soundtrack of this movie is great,featuring P.I.L.,PJ Harvey,Joy Division,Tom Waits,David Bowie,The Pogues and John Cale.

Fashion faux pas (part 1)

1 Jan

I made many, many fashion faux pas, but this is probably one of my worst..

Years ago, just before the millenium, I was staying in Paris during fashion week and after a day of running around, I went to diner with some friends. We had booked a table in a little ‘in-crowd’ restaurant and were talking about our favorite designer those days, Helmut Lang. One of the boys was wearing a shirt by Helmut Lang, another a pair of briefs and I, very low on cash at the time, was wearing a cardigan I made myself, but it was a bit too much inspired by Helmut Lang…..

I had a great evening, until…the others started giggeling. I didn’t understand what was going on, till they asked me to turn around. There he was, Helmut Lang, together with some of his models at the centre table of the restaurant. I turned purple and just wanted to dissolve into dust. I tried to take of my cardigan, as unnoticeable as possible.

He didn’t see what was happening at our table, but I felt bad anyway.  Sorry, mr.Lang!!!!

Comme des Garçons is genius (the beginning)

1 Jan

It must have been 1986/87, I walked into ‘Reflections’,a designer store in Amsterdam and saw a man’s suit jacket by Comme des Garçons, so genius I couldn’t believe my eyes! It embodied how I felt about clothes and CDG still does!

Comme des Garçons started in 1969, when Rei Kawakubo was working as a freelance stylist for Japanese magazines and wasn’t satisfied with clothes available for use, so she started designing her own clothes. In the 1960s and 1970s foreign influences were flooding into Tokyo and Rei Kawakubo was inspired by western clothes, but didn’t experience a hindrance by western heritage and restrictions .

She decided not to use her own name, because she wanted the focus of attention on the work itself, not on her. She choose to collaborate with an architect, a photographer, a graphic designer and a floral artist. Instead of models, her clothes were shown by artists and actors (Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel Basquiat were among them).

CDG started interrogating fashion, deconstructing the western clothes,dismantling spaces, playing with fabrics like distressing or washing, texture was replaced by a blown up photocopy of woven Prince of Wales check,then printed on stretchy nylons. Colors were reduced to black & white variations, like in old photographs, from smoky to grey to deep black and white warm up with sepia to daylight white. Shapes were investigated, bumps were added and gave curves where you normally don’t expect them. A totally different approach to fashion untill then.

Photography has always been very important for CDG, but also there the brand made big changes. The garment or the perfume bottle weren’t the focus, but the picture itself was: first you noticed the picture, than the product in the picture.

Rei Kawakubo created a style, but she is also about continual renewel. To provoke a healthy rivalry within her own company and keep it sharp on the edge,she helped a young designer, Junya Watanabe, whom she trained herself, to set up an independent fashion brand. A daring, but intelligent move!

CDG forever changed the way people look, think and feel about fashion. Rei Kawakubo is a visionair, an inspiration to never stop  reinventing myself and my work……… www.comme-des-garcons.com

Legacies of war

1 Jan

Martin Margiela lounged mittens with separated index fingers years ago. I love them and have two pairs myself, short black leather ones and long knitted army green ones.

Curious as I am, I wanted to know why the separate index finger and started seeking for an explenation. I finaly found it in a book about army clothes. The design comes from WW I & II, when in winter soldiers needed to keep their hands warm, but also needed to be able to handle their riffles. To pull the trigger,mittens were not practical, but separated index fingers in the mittens became the solution to this problem……

Another legacy of WWII is drawing the seam of a nylon stocking on the back of your leg. Women didn’t have money for fresh nylons and there was also a great shortage of supplies, so they found the solution in faking them, by drawing a seam on the back of their legs, how clever was that!