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Donna Jordan, among the Most Influential Models of All Time

13 Sep
Donna Jordan

Though perhaps lesser known than some of her disco-era colleagues, Donna Jordan ranks among the most influential models of all time. Before Lara Stone was even born, Donna was the bleach browed, gap-toothed beauty who set the trend. Whether she was being shot by photographers like Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin and Oliviero Toscani, or appearing in Andy Warhol films Donna demanded the attention of the fashion crowd.

Donna Jordan. Antonio Lopez & Pat Cleveland, Donna Jordan, Antonio Lopez & Pat Cleveland Donna Jordan with photographer Oliviero ToscaniDonna with photographer Oliviero Toscani Donna Jordan, Andy Warhol & Jane Forth promoting the 1971 film, L'AmourDonna Jordan, Andy Warhol & Jane Forth promoting the 1971 film, L'Amour

Once dubbed ‘Disco Marilyn’, Donna Jordan wasn’t very interested in becoming a model. But illustrator Antonio Lopez saw something special in her. Together with his life partner Juan Ramos, Antonio bleached Donna’s hair and eyebrows and a new model was ‘born’. “Antonio was magical,” says model Donna Jordan. “When I first met him in 1967, he was coming down the steps to Bethesda Fountain, in Central Park, dressed in a red suit. He was quite a vision.”

jane forth& donna jordanJane Forth & Donna JordanDonna Jordan

Donna Jordan

Donna Jordan
Donna Jordan & Pat ClevelandDonna Jordan & Pat Cleveland
Vogue Italia, July 2015.Vogue Italia, July 2015, ph. by Steven Meisel

Donna was part of YSL’s clique in Paris and a muse to Karl Lagerfeld. She was a firm believer in 40’s inspired shoulder pads, red lipstick and glamour! Like any Andy Warhol Superstar…she was also an “actress”! She starred in Andy Warhol’s L’Amour as an American gold digger in Paris (a role in which she had a steamy kissing scene with Karl Lagerfeld!!!).

november 1971Donna Jordan cover Vogue Paris, November 1971
Donna JordanDonna Jordan cover Vogue Italia, 1971
Donna Jordan, 1977 

Donna Jordan tells:

In New York, late 1960’s, there used to be Be-Ins at Bethesda Fountain in central Park. Everybody would just go and hang out… real hippie stuff.  I was there one day with Jane Forth, when out of nowhere appeared Antonio Lopez in head-to-toe red: red suit, red top hat, red cane. All of that coming down the Bethesda stairs was such an amazing vision and for some reason there was a real connection. Antonio looked at Jane and me and we became immediately his muses. It was an instantaneous karmic kind of thing. We were just little kids, 17 years old – we’re talking 1967 – and suddenly are lives were transformed.

antonio lopez, corey tippin donna jordan, st. tropez 1970

Donna Jordan, Antonio Lopez & Juan RamosAntonio Lopez, Corey Tippin & Donna Jordan, st. Tropez 1970
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Every other night it was Carnegie Hall or Max’s Kansas City. Max’s was my living room and we would dance all night.  I was the only of my friends who had a job at – Paraphernalia, one of the first boutiques in New York City –  so I’d work all day and go out all night.

In 1969, after I’d had enough of New York and the whole Warhol scene, I went to London and kind of floated. Antonio found me again, I went to Paris and the rest is history.

Those were wild, crazy, fun, ridiculous times. I was living in the moment so much, I never thought about tomorrow and it all happened so fast, like a huge rush.

Aesthetically I think the Europeans were attracted to me, because I have such an open, American face. I booked the cover of French Vogue-their “pop” issue- which led me into an exiting time because Antonio’s influence was growing in Paris and we were like family. It was the midpoint of a transformation that changed my life.

Donna Jordan

by Andy Warhol

Donna Jordan

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Info: CR Fashion Book, September 2013

Laurene Stone, rose to Fame during the 1960s

6 Sep

Laurene Stone

Former magazine cover girl Paulene Stone may not be as well-known as other models from the era but Paulene’s style was certainly what everyone wanted. The statuesque beauty embodied Swinging London more than any other, and her work with David Bailey is what the photographer has attributed to kicking off his career in 1960.

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Paulene talks about her life

Paulene Stone has led an extraordinary life. A fashion model and three-time Vogue cover girl, she rose to fame during the 1960s, rubbing shoulders with many glittering names of the day and creating some of the decade’s most enduring images.

Stone was born in Hove in 1941. Her mother was a talented dressmaker with Katharine Hepburn looks, while her father was a commercial artist. She fell in love with fashion at a young age and quit school aged 16 with aspirations to become a model.
Paulene Stone

 Ph. by John French

Paulene Stone

Laurene Stone, 1964 by David BaileyPh. by David Bailey, 1964


She took a holiday job at a knotweed wholesale business in the local town, on a vague promise that it might involve some modelling work. “Well, I soon realised there was none and I ended up stacking shelves,” says Stone, who with her large eyes, enviable cheekbones and delicate features, still looks every inch the model.

One day, the owner’s daughter spotted an article in Woman’s Own, which invited readers to enter a modelling competition. “She said, ‘You’ve got to send a photograph of yourself,’” recalls Stone. “So I trotted down to the high street photographer and had an absolutely terrible picture taken. I sent it off and I won.

The prize was a three-week modelling course with the prestigious Cherry Marshall Model Agency on Jermyn Street. Marshall, a former model herself with a 22-inch waist, became famous in the 1950s under the moniker Miss Susan Small. “Cherry was wonderful, she really pushed me.”

Paulene Stone

floral-projection-on-model-1960s-photo-john-frenchPh. by John French

Soon tiring of the daily commute to London, an 18-year-old Stone packed her bags and moved to the big smoke, taking a room in a boarding house on Cranley Place in South Kensington. Armed with an A to Z and a Tube map, she quickly settled into London life. 

“I actually remember the last pea souper we had. I was driving to my boyfriend’s house and the fog was so thick. I drove down Buckingham Gate to turn left into Petty France and accidentally turned into Buckingham Palace, because in those days they just left the gates open. A policeman came up with a big hand through the fog and said, ‘’Ere, where do you think you’re going?’”

Paulene Stone photographed by David Bailey, Daily Express, 1960.

Stone’s modelling career began to take off in a big way. In 1960, aged 19, she was snapped posing with a squirrel by David Bailey for the Daily Express, in an iconic image that is credited with launching the photographer’s career. She landed her first Vogue cover three years later and went on to grace the front page twice more.

The King’s Road was the epicentre of the Swinging Sixties and the atmosphere was “fabulous”, declares Stone. “There were so many individual shops – Granny Takes a Trip, Top Gear, Countdown. By the time I was really hitting the King’s Road, I was dating Laurence Harvey (an Academy Award nominated actor). We would go down in a chauffeur-driven car, and people would stop to catch a glimpse of him. It always seemed to be sunny, and I’d be wearing my shortest hot pants or a miniskirt.

Stone met Harvey – whom she affectionately calls Larry – through her journalist friend Peter Evans. “He said, ‘I’m having drinks with Laurence Harvey at The Connaught tonight, why don’t you come with me?’ Well, I’d seen him in Darling, and his character was so sleazy and horrible. But Peter persuaded me, so I went along. Larry opened the door of his suite and I just thought, ‘Wow.’ He was very tall, very handsome and great fun.”

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Ph. by Brian Duffy, 1964
Vogue August 1964 COVER HELMUT NEWTON MODEL Pauline StonePh. Helmut Newton, August 1964

Harvey “had one foot in old Hollywood, and one foot in new Hollywood”, says Stone. He made two films with Elizabeth Taylor and the couple socialized with her and her husband Richard Burton. “Richard was hypnotic. He had amazing green eyes and when he talked to you, he would just lock onto you.

Then there was Sammy Davis Jr, Peter Lawford, Leslie Bricusse and his wife Evie, Michael Caine, Terence Stamp, former model Sandra Paul (now married to the politician Michael Howard) and Joan Collins, who Stone says is “wonderful”. “She’s so much fun.”

The couple married on New Year’s Eve, 1972, but tragically Harvey died of cancer just 11 months later. “He was only 45 and we didn’t know he had it,” told Stone. “It was very sad.” They had one daughter, the bounty hunter Domino Harvey, who died in 2005. A film based on her life, starring Keira Knightley and directed by Tony Scott, was released the same year.

Laurene Stone

Laurene Stone

Photo by Brian Duffy 1966

Stone has another daughter, Sophie, from her first marriage to Take 6 fashion-chain founder Tony Norris, and a son, Harry, by her third husband Peter Morton, who co-founded the Hard Rock Café. Her fourth husband, the actor Mark Burns, passed away in 2007 after a struggle with cancer. Stone herself has battled the illness three times. “I feel lucky that I’m alive.” 

Despite being a model, Stone doesn’t wear many fancy clothes. “I like to wear separates. I never wear a dress. I’ll put on a sweater and jeans, or a T-shirt in the summer, with a nice jacket. I’ve always spent a lot of money on accessories, but I’ve never really gone in for fancy outfits, probably because when I was modelling, I was wearing them all day.

Paulene Stone with Mrs Sylvia StonePaulene Stone & her mother Mrs Sylvia Stone

 

Her first Vogue cover was a thrilling moment, she says. “I was quite chuffed, but I took it all in my stride. My mother was very proud – she kept all the cuttings.” Modelling was very different in the 1960s, she adds. “In those days you didn’t have a make-up artist or hairdresser. You even had to provide your own shoes – a neutral pair and a black pair.”

“You had to do it all yourself and you had to be pretty perfect too, because they didn’t retouch. There was none of this Photoshop stuff, thank you very much. Everything is so smoothed out now, I can’t believe it. We didn’t have any of that – we were the way we were.”

Paulene Stone.
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Info://www.pubbiz.com/page/content/000082

 

Paul Weller, revered to as one of the Coolest Men on the Planet

30 Aug
Paul Weller

Paul Weller (born 25 May 1958) is an English singer-songwriter and musician. Starting out with the band The Jam (1976–82), Weller branched out to a more soulful style with The Style Council (1983–89), before establishing himself as a successful solo artist in 1991. He is also revered as one of the coolest men on the planet.

While Weller has been described as a punk, a soul boy, a pin-up for dad-rock and laddism, throughout it all he has been, first and foremost, a Mod (nicknamed the Modfather). Looking sharp is all important to Mods – it’s almost a religion to devotees – and for almost four decades Weller has been a style icon.

Paul Weller
Paul Weller about style

I come from a time when every kid dressed up. Everybody. If you didn’t, you wouldn’t be able to hang out. It was very tribal. There’s nice things in that. It’s culture, it’s roots for me. Maybe I just never grew up, mate.

When I was a kid in Woking, every week you went to the football dance, and every week the top kids would be wearing something different. You were constantly trying to catch up with them – which you could never do because, by the time you’d saved up enough to buy the item, they’d moved on to something else. That’s the whole Mod thing I suppose.

Paul Weller

Paul Weller

Paul Weller

Paul Weller

Paul Weller

Paul Weller

This was the late Sixties, early Seventies and we were all post-skinheads – suedeheads. We were little peanuts, too young to be proper skinheads. But those styles permeated down to the kids anyway. The main strand that forged it together was that American-college look, the Brooks Brothers look: the cardigans and sleeveless jumpers and the buttoned-down shirts and the Sta-Prest trousers. That was the common ground. It was a way for people who haven’t got much to make a show.

I can remember original Ben Sherman shirts being around till the early Seventies. I had to really save for my first Ben Sherman. We used to buy Brutus shirts, which were much cheaper – second best. But Ben Shermans were the sought-after item. The first one I ever got was a lemon-yellow one. I must have been 12, 13, and it was a bit too big for me. But being a kid I didn’t realise you could take it back to the shop. I wore it till it fitted me.

Paul Weller

Paul Weller

Paul WellerIt’s the aesthetic that sticks in my mind. The colours and the look of things have stayed with me. It meant everything to me. It was a statement of intent. And I thought, wouldn’t it be nice to have a Ben Sherman as they used to make ’em 40 years ago, or whatever it was. So I spoke to Ben Sherman about doing my own design, based on how they used to be, as near as dammit anyway. With a few little modern touches. I just did a little sketch, put all the details in: the bigger collar, bit more like a contemporary Italian collar, a few little touches here and there. It’s not rocket science.

Fashion Collaborations

ben_sherman_weller_stripe_shirtPaul Weller for Ben Sherman shirt
Paul Weller for HudsonPaul Weller for Hudson, a basket-weave shoe

fredperryPaul Weller for Fred PerryPaul Weller for Fred Perry

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The hook-up with Ben Sherman follows previous collaborations with shoemakers Hudson, for whom he came up with a basket-weave shoe, ‘which really took off.

He e was also involved with another British clothing classic, Fred Perry. ‘I went through their archives to try to find the same kind of weave they used 35, 40 years ago. I wanted to make the collar a little wider and have more of a roll – all the little details that they lost along the way.

In 2009 Liam Gallagher, front-men Oasis, founded a brand which unites people through a love of music and fashion. Named after a track by The Jam, ‘Pretty Green’ provides simple, classic clothing with a modern twist in three distinct labels. In 2011, Paul Weller designed a collection for the label.

Paul Weller for Pretty Green

paul weller for pretty green

paul weller for pretty green

Paul Weller for Pretty Green

 

 To celebrate the brand’s 120th anniversary of DAKS, Paul Weller and his daughter Leah were asked to model.  Daks-02-GQ-21Jul14_pr_b_813x494

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And in October 2014, launched his own line of clothing with his partner Phil, owner of Tonic on Portobello Road, under the name  REAL STARS ARE RARE. It has a simple vision: small collections of classic, timeless pieces with a focus on quality materials. Every garment we is based on inspiration Paul Weller has taken from a life-long interest in fashion and style and starts life sketched by him.

real stars are rare

real stars are rare

real stars are rare

https://realstarsarerare.com/

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paul weller

 

info:

http://www.mrporter.com/journal/journal_issue56/1#1

http://www.gigwise.com/features/100395/paul-weller-interview—fashion-&-style-noel-gallagher-pretty-green

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/moslive/article-448356/Paul-Wellers-rock-star-style.html

Miuccia Prada rebuilt a sleepy Family Business

2 Aug
Miuccia Prada was born Maria Bianchi Prada on May 10, 1949, in Milan, Italy. She was the youngest granddaughter of Mario Prada, who started the Prada fashion line in 1913 by manufacturing well-crafted, high-end suitcases, handbags and steamer trunks for the Milanese elite.
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Miuccia was an unlikely inheritor of her family’s business. A former member of the Italian Communist Party, she attended the University of Milan, where she made a name for herself as an ardent feminist and earned a Ph.D. in political science. Following her academic work, Prada planted herself at Milan’s Piccolo Teatro, where she trained as a mime for five years.
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In 1978, Miuccia entered her family’s business and soon set to work on rebuilt a company that had grown sleepy and inactive. With the help of her future husband, Patrizio Bertelli, Muiccia began updating the company’s merchandise with designs she’d developed herself.She first dazzled the fashion world in 1985, when she unveiled a series of black nylon handbags and backpacks with understated labeling—a stark contrast to the logo heavy clothes that dominated the fashion world at the time. Four years later, Prada, who has no formal fashion training, introduced a line of ready-to-wear women’s clothes that she called “uniforms for the slightly disenfranchised.” (disenfranchised : voteless, voiceless)  Some critics burned it, but consumers ate it up. 
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Miuccia’s Wayward Designs for Prada

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In 1992, she introduced a new, more affordable label called Miu Miu. Three years later, the company unveiled a line of men’s clothing..

Much of what set Prada apart from the rest of the fashion world is Miuccia’s seeming disregard for the fashion industry. She has always blazed her own trail in trying new styles. Her experimentation once included a raincoat that was transparent until it became wet, at which point it turned opaque. While major-league designers cashed in on their singular, predictable vision, Miuccia Prada has made her creative quirky behaviour pay off. If the rest of the fashion world says “color,” she will present an all-black collection. In the process, she has been consistent for the most part only in her fearlessness. “When they tell me something won’t sell, that is when I want to make it,” she has often said, alluding to her choices in fabrics and silhouettes.
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Her knowledge of fashion comes from her own closet and her personal style. Growing up in a wealthy Milanese family, Miuccia was wearing Courrèges and Yves Saint Laurent by the time she was a teenager. Her ability to marry the functional with the radical has inspired such influential trends as clothing made of techno fabric, 1950s housewife dresses cut from nylon and, of course, the nylon backpack.

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Miuccia Prada

info: http://content.time.com/time/specials/2007/article/0,28804,1647860_1647834_1644300,00.html

The Row, from Celebrity Brand to Womenswear Designers of the Year

19 Jul

 

MARY-KATE-AND-ASHLEY-OLSEN

Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Fuller Olsen (born June 13, 1986), also known as the Olsen twins collectively, are American actresses and fashion designers. The twins made their acting debut as infants playing Michelle Tanner on the television series Full House. At the age of six, they began starring together in TV, film, and video projects, which continued to their teenage years. Through their company Dualstar, the Olsens joined the ranks of the wealthiest women in the entertainment industry at a young age.

The Olsens had a clothing line for girls ages 4–14 in Wal-Mart stores across North America, as well as a beauty line called “Mary-Kate and Ashley: Real fashion for real girls“. In 2004, they made news by signing a pledge to allow full maternity leave to all the workers that sew their line of clothing in Bangladesh. The National Labor Committee, which organized the pledge, praised the twins for their commitment to worker rights.

Mary-Kate & Ashley Boho style

The Olsen twins

Olsen boho style

Olsen twins

As the sisters matured, they expressed greater interest in their fashion choices, with The New York Times declaring Mary-Kate a fashion icon for pioneering her signature (and now popular among celebrities and fans alike) “homeless” look. The style, sometimes referred to by fashion journalists as “ashcan” or “bohemian-bourgeois“, is similar to the boho-chic style popularized in Britain by Kate Moss. The look consists of oversized sunglasses, boots, loose sweaters, and flowing skirts, with an aesthetic of mixing high-end and low-end pieces. The twins were tapped as the faces of upscale fashion line Badgley Mischka in 2006.

In 2006 the Olsens launched their own fashion label, “The Row“, named after Savile Row in London.In 2007, they launched Elizabeth & James, a contemporary collection inspired by many of their unique vintage finds and pieces in their personal wardrobes. They have also released a women’s clothing line for J.C. Penney, called Olsenboye, and a T-shirt line called “StyleMint”. In 2008, the sisters published the book Influence, a compilation of interviews with many of the most prominent people in the field of fashion. In 2012, Mary Kate and Ashley were named Womenswear Designers of the Year by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) for their brand The Row.

The Row speaks fashion’s language. It’s luxurious, understated and minimalist, without being boring. Now nearly 10 years in the business, they have nailed a sort of loungy minimalism as their aesthetic – a tiny nod to Mary-Kate’s style, but without a floppy fedora in sight. Rather than wanting to look like the founders, fashion insiders just want to wear the clothes. It helps that they’re reassuringly expensive. A backpack this season retails at nearly £2,700, while a white cotton shirt is £690. A previous bag design, an alligator backpack, was famously priced at £22,950. That puts it up there with the priciest of luxury brands, Saint Laurent and Céline and, without shouting about it, that’s a statement of intent. This is the territory that The Row want to enter, going from celebrity brand to the upper positions of the fashion industry.

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Influence is about the Olsen twins’ influences in fashion and style, the book includes interviews with: Karl Lagerfeld Diane Von Furstenberg John Galliano Lauren Hutton Christian Louboutin amongst many others.

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Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen in New York, NY (Photo by Don Parks/WireImage)