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Brian Jones, the Embodiment of Unconventional

1 Sep
Brian Jones photographed by Gered Mankowitz
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My friend Eddy de Clercq is and has always been a very stylish man. During his teens he regularly went on a ferry-boat to London to buy the newest and hippest clothes. His shopping trips started at Biba, the most fashionable & exciting department store ever and to Seditionairies, the boutique  by Vivienne Westwood & Malcolm McLaren at World’s End, where he bought the infamous t-shirt with the drawing of two half-naked cowboys by Tom of Finland.  
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In Paris he strolled the streets wearing a black suit with pagoda shoulders designed by Yves Saint Laurent, who had recently opened his store ‘Rive Gauche’. Prêt-à-porter as still a new concept then and Yves was the first haute couture designer to embrace the London street style, as one of the first Parisian fashion designers  promoting young fashion at affordable prices in specially designed stores. 
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One of Eddy’s style icons, maybe even thé style icon, is Brian Jones, founding member of The Rolling Stones.
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When he was 14, he asked the barber to cut his hair just like Brian Jones. Little did he know that Brian never had a serious haircut in his life, he just grew his blonde tresses into a helmet type of hairstyle that covered his forehead and floppy ears completely. When Eddy’s father came into the barbershop and saw his son’s new haircut, he freaked out and ordered the barber to cut it again, but this time into a very short crewcut, American style. 
Tears gushed and Eddy was so upset with the result that he ran away from home, only to return after a few months with a genuine Brian Jones hairdo.
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Biography 

Lewis Brian Hopkin Jones was born February 28, 1942 in Cheltenham, UK. Young Brian was an excellent student at school and his father hoped his son would follow in his academic footsteps and go to university, but Brian decided against university and started a series of random jobs. He had only one passion: music.
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After being introduced to the music of Charlie Parker, Brian persuaded his parents to buy him a saxophone. Having mastered that instrument, he received an acoustic guitar. At nineteen, he went to a concert of the Chris Barber Band at Cheltenham Town Hall. The set they played  included a blues segment and it stimulated Brian to practice the blues on a slide guitar.
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At twenty Brian hitch-hiked to London where he would go to the Ealing Blues Club. It was there one night Mick Jagger and Keith Richards heard Brian play slide guitar and were impressed with his version of Elmore James’s “Dust My Broom”. Soon after Brian, Ian Stewart, Mick and Keith formed a band. On the 12th July 1962 they played their first gig at the Marquee Club, billed as The Rollin’ Stones.
Brian came up with the name the “Rollin’ Stones” (later with the ‘g’) while on the phone with the venue owner.
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Brian’s musicianship had an inevitable influence on the singles that pushed The Rolling Stones into the pop charts. But he was also one of the ultimate 60′s pop stars, with a creative and cutting edge fashion sense and an iconic hairdo to match.
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Though they were sharply dressed, Brian always stood out
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The Rolling Stones looked like a clean-cut “boy band”.
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In the early days The Rolling Stones looked like a clean-cut “boy band”. Though they were sharply dressed, Brian always stood out (when they weren’t all dressed exactly the same) and he always played the coolest, quirky guitars. The short time he was in the band, Brian Jones transformed from a young lad keeping it sharp to a man living the full on rock and roll decadence.
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A fashion Icon, sharply dressed and always clean cut, Jones wore meticulously fitted velvet jackets. Always more than often, donned in shirts, some striped, others plain, or patterned and often worn with cravats. Style of an eccentric. Brian was the embodiment of unconventional, his famous blonde bowl haircut, hazel eyes and the aesthetic representation. Decorum and grace were all there. Brian had a tremendous lot of clothes and spent an awful amount of time preparing himself for late-night appearances into the clubs.

Brian Jones & Anita Pallenberg

Brian Jones & Anita Pallenberg in Vogue

Brian was featured alongside Anita Pallenberg, in an issue of ‘œMen in Vogue’, in 1966.

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Brian and Anita

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Brian Jones and Anita Pallenberg were a couple from 1965 untill she started dating Keith Richards in 1967. Anita suggested he always tried to look like Francois Hardy. He certainly took a good swing at it, almost hitting the look of darling Hardy, on the very fine nail. Jones’ biographer Geoffrey Giuliano writes about him and Pallenberg: “Together they forged a revolutionary androgynous look, keeping their clothes together, mixing and matching not only fabrics and patterns, but cultures and even centuries. Jones would parade the streets of London wearing a Victorian lace shirt, floppy turn-of-the-century hat, Edwardian velvet frock coat, multi-coloured suede boots, accessorised scarves hanging from his neck, waist and legs along with lots of antique Berber jewellery.”

Style article
Marianne Faithfull remembers: One of the best things about visiting Anita and Brian was watching them get ready to go out. What a scene! They were both dauntless shoppers and excessively vain. Hours and hours were spent putting on clothes and taking them off again. Heaps of scarves, hats, shirts and boots flew out of drawers and trunks. Unending trying on of outfits, primping and sashaying. They were beautiful, they were the spitting image of each other and not an ounce of modesty existed between two of them. I would sit mesmerised for hours, watching them preening in the mirror, trying on each other’s clothes. All roles and gender would evaporate in these narcissistic performances, where Anita would turn Brian into the Sun King, Francoise Hardy or the mirror image of herself   (Quote from Faithfull  by Marianne Faithfull & David Dalton. http://www.amazon.com/Faithfull-An-Autobiography-Marianne/dp/0815410468)
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That blonde bowl haircut that’s so indicative of  Brian started to grow out as the suits and striped jumpers were replaced with velvet jackets and shirts with cravats. The jeans got tighter, the boots got bigger.
Beyond the music, trend setting hair style, loves, loathes and lusts, Jones was burdened, like many of his fellow artists, with the abuse of substances such as drugs and alcohol. Brian’s demise was a tragic one, like most of the 27 club ( Music artists who all died at 27 : Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, Jim  Morrison, Kurt Cobain… and recently Amy Winehouse). 
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Brian saw his influence over the Stones’ direction slide as their repertoire comprised fewer of the blues covers that he preferred; more Jagger/Richards originals developed, and Andrew Loog Oldham increased his own managerial control, displacing Jones from yet another role. Bill Wyman stated:  “There were two Brian’s… one was introverted, shy, sensitive, deep-thinking… the other was a preening peacock, gregarious, artistic, desperately needing assurance from his peers… he pushed every friendship to the limit and way beyond”.
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Brian pulled out of (or actually was forced out) The Rolling Stones in 1969, prior to a planned North American tour. He was unable to join, due to a criminal record for possession of cannabis, but he was also physically no longer able to play instruments. Brian Jones died on the 3rd July 1969, at the age of 27, after he was discovered motionless at the bottom of his swimming pool at Cotchford Farm.
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Book

Brian Jones  The last Decadent

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“This is the book that every Brian Jones fan has been waiting for, the most sensitive and honest portrait of Brian yet. Finally justice is done.”

The Official Brian Jones Fanclub

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http://www.amazon.com/Brian-Jones-The-Last-Decadent/dp/1871592712 .

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Movie

Stoned

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‘The life of Rolling Stones founder Brian Jones was as wild as it was short, filled with gorgeous groupies, unimaginable decadence, and groundbreaking music.  By age 26, he had achieved enormous fame and fortune; a year later he would be dead.  The story of rocks forgotten father, Stoned unravels the mystery surrounding his death while re-living the sex, drugs, and rock and roll that made the sixties swing.’ .

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Eddy de Clercq music blog: http://soulsafari.wordpress.com/

information for this post:

http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brian_Jones

http://www.rollingstones.com   

http://dandyinaspic.blogspot.nl/2011/09/brian-jones-1960s-peacock-style-icon.html

Chanel: A Woman of her Own by Axel Madsen

28 Jul
Chanel by Richard Avedon                                                  (Coco Chanel by Richard Avedon)
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I must have read it 4 or 5 times now, Chanel: A Woman of her Own by Axel Madsen and like to recommend it as a very good read.

   “I didn’t create fashion, I am fashion.”   

Coco Chanel’s genius for fashion may have been distilled in simplicity, but her life was an extravaganza. A brilliant array of luminaries fell under her spell – Picasso, Churchill, Cocteau; lovers included the Grand Duke Dmitri; the English roué, Boy Capel; a French poet; a German spy and the Duke of Westminster, who offered to leave his wife for her permanently, if she would only bear him an heir. Paradoxically, though she might have been regarded in some lights as a pioneering feminist – sacrificing marriage to a revolutionary career in couture – Chanel was utterly baffled by the idea of women’s politics. Educated women? ‘A woman’s education consists of two lessons: never leave the house without stockings, never go out without a hat.’ Chanel’s rise from penniless orphan to millionaire designer – ‘inventing’ sportswear, the little black dress and No. 5 – makes compelling reading, not least because she was inclined to design her own life as deftly as she did her fashions. Axel Madsen negotiates Chanel’s smoke screens with skill, bringing this tantalizing woman to life in all her alluring complexity.

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PEERS BOOK REVIEWS

Review by Cathleen Myers
It’s not easy to construct a biography of a compulsive liar, especially when your subject is a highly creative liar who told a different set of lies to each biographer and eventually came to believe some of her own fantasies.
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According to Axel Madsen’s well-documented biography, most of the “accepted” story about Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s romantic early life is pure fantasy. She didn’t learn dressmaking from sewing samplers for her strict “aunts” or from “taking courses in design;” but from the nuns at the orphanage where she was raised after her mother’s death and from an ordinary apprenticeship at a provincial dressmaker’s. Her first hat shop was started on money from her first protector, Etienne Balsan, not from her first love the polo-playing Englishman “Boy” Capell. Her father was not a respectable horse trader but an itinerant market fair trader who abandoned her; and she was illegitimate, a disgrace she sought to hide all her life.
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Madsen’s biography is an eminently readable celebration of Chanel’s genius as both a couturier and as a self-made business woman who refused the easy life of a kept woman to start her own business, rise to the top of a male-dominated profession and help transform women’s fashion from the opulent Edwardian style to the practical, natural, “modern” look most of us wear today (to work, at least). The author’s style is lively and novelistic and he does have a good knowledge of the fashion industry, though he gives Coco credit for innovations that were not her own (The “feminization of masculine fashion” had been going on in England before Coco’s birth). But Madsen dishes so well about the deadly world of Haute Couture that his lavishly illustrated book is a must for anyone interested in the history of fashion and costume.
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Historian’s warning: Madsen’s main weakness is a lack of understanding of the class structure of Chanel’s world (as his misuse of British titles makes clear). A true American, Madsen wonders why Coco fought so hard to conceal her “roots.” Since her true rags-to-riches story is so remarkable, why pretend to have risen from the lower middle class? But those of us who understand 19th century social history understand Chanel’s motives. Nor does Madsen seem to understand the social cachet that an English duke carries even today – which explains Chanel’s desire to marry the eccentric Duke of Westminster, her ruthless erasure of her past, and Westminster’s ultimate refusal to marry her. He was desperate for a male heir and, judging from Debrett’s, preferred well-born brides .

Coco Chanel’s life in photographs & quotes

coco-chanel_6059_1-e1323537635564 Coco Chanel at the age of 23

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When Coco Chanel lived with Etienne Balsan at Royallieu, she started wearing men’s clothes
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Coco & BoyCoco Chanel & Boy Capel, 1912
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coco chanel & adrienneCoco & Adrienne in 1913, in front of Coco’s first boutique in Deauville
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“Hard  times arouse an instinctive desire for authenticity.”

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Coco & the duke of WestminsterCoco & Bendor, the Duke of Westminster, at the Grand National racetrack

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Coco & Winston Churchill
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Coco & Winston Churchill
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Gabrielle 'Coco' Chanel and Serge Lifar (The principal dancer of Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes during its final years in the late 1920's) -Coco & Serge Lifar (The principal dancer of Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes during its final years in the late 1920’s)
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COCOCoco photographed by Cecil Beaton, 1937
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“A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous.”

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Coco & Salvador DalíCoco & Salvador Dalí
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CocoCoco Chanel at 50 by George Hoyningen-Huene
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“Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they remember the woman.”

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Coco working on het beloved jewelry

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“Fashion has become a joke. The designers have forgotten that there are women inside the dresses. Most women dress for men and want to be admired. But they must also be able to move, to get into a car without bursting their seams! Clothes must have a natural shape.”

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Coco Chanel
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Limi Yamamoto a.k.a. LIMI feu

21 Jul

Limi & Yoshi Yamamoto

(photograph by Robert Maxwell)

Feu means fire, and there’s a lot of fight in Limi.

 Born in 1974 by the famous fashion designer Yohji Yamamoto, it was not surprisingly that Limi Yamamoto chose a creative path and took up fashion studies at Bunka Fashion College and is now one of Japan’s most promising fashion designers.

She started work as a pattern maker for the Y’s line of Yohji Yamamoto Inc. in 1996. After working 2 years as a pattern maker for Y’s, she started her very own label named Y’s bis LIMI in year of 1999 and presented her first 2000 autumn/winter collection in Tokyo. In 2002, the brand was renamed as LIMI feu and with a huge success, Limi further expanded her fashion territory to Paris and debuted her 2008 spring/summer collection there obtaining praises immediately.. In 2009, she was awarded the Designer of the Year award by the 51st Fashion Editor’s Club of Japan.

LIMI feu  spring 2013

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In one interview, when asked how Limi’s  style differs from the style of her famous dad), the designer replied simply: “by the fact that I’m a woman”. If the question was what they have in common, it would be that they are both Japanese.  Where the designs of Yohji are considered to be more romantic, the clothes of Limi are femininely sensual. Her signature is, first of all, in the volume: the garments are oversized, as if migrated from the men’s wardrobe to women’s as well as the combination of military style and delicate floral prints on the same coat, or those funny high bowlers. At one show several men came out on the runway which had the audience wondering if Limi has launched a men’s collection. “Ah non,” exclaimed one of her French  staff.  “It’s just that in Japan men often borrow LIMI feu from their girlfriends closets so she wanted to play with that”.

LIMI feu catwalk pictures

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A tribute to that infinitely complex and perfected very “Japanese” cut is in order: that black-white-grey palette, only occasionally broken by the bright colour splashes of blue, red or their mosaic combination, and that seemingly simple maximally elongated male snow-white shirt, and the curiosity of the trousers with strap,; and short leather jackets with inevitable motorcycle boots.
Sensuous rock and roll on the verge of anguish, or simply on the verge of.. male and female.

“She made it” declared a beaming Yohji after his daughter’s Paris debut. And papa had every reason to be proud: The collection was a walking advertisement for fashion DNA.

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Boutique in Paris

 Situé dans le deuxième arrondissement, au 13 rue de Turbigo.

Limi Feu boutique

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LIMI feu Prankster

LIMI feu also produces a kid collection called LIMI feu Pranster, which is very popular in Japan.

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LIMI feu Prankster

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Limi Yamamoto

Amazing Pattern Books

14 Jul

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A couple of years ago, my sister Mary showed me a great online shop specialized in books on crafts like sawing, knitting, beading, embroidery etc. She had bought a Japanese book with patterns for children’s clothes which was really great, so I started searching the shop for other pattern books and found the best ever. They were written in Japanese, but because I am a very advanced sewer this didn’t withhold me from buying some of the books. A little while ago I noticed one of these books in a bookstore in Amsterdam, but this one was translated in English. So for my fellow craftsmen who haven’t been introduced to these fantastic books, read this post.

 Pattern Magic

Pattern Magic

Pattern Magic is the cult pattern-cutting book from Japan. Taking inspiration from nature, from geometric shapes and from the street, this book harnesses the sheer joy of making and sculpting clothes. The book takes a creative approach to pattern cutting, with step-by-step projects for fashion designers and dressmakers to enjoy.
All the basic information you need to start pattern cutting is included, from the basic block to measurements and scaling. Each project is beautifully illustrated with clear diagrams and photographs showing the stages of construction, the toiles and the finished garments. These easy-to-follow illustrations and detailed instructions make it easy to create stunning, sculptural clothes with a couture look.

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 Pattern Magic  vol. 2

Pattern magic vol. 2

About the Author

After serving many years as a professor at Bunka Fashion College, Tomoko Nakamichi currently delivers lectures and holds courses on design making, both in Japan and overseas.

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Pattern Magic even has its own Facebook page on which people show their own Magic Pattern-garments and their own designs !
 
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Pattern Magic  Stretch Fabrics

Pattern Magic
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All three books (English version)  can be ordered by Amazon.com
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Men’s coats by Ryuichiro Shimazaki

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Japanese Sewing Pattern book for Men’s Coats with Full-Sized Pattern Sheet Basic & Cool!!! These cool coats are all designed by  Ryuichiro Shimazaki. Ryuichiro Shimazaki is very famous Sewing Designer for men in Japan!! This book is absolutely FANTASTIC! It’s written in Japanese though… Don’t worry 🙂 You can get step-by-step instructions  in illustrations ! 01 – Trench Coat 02 – Trench Coat (Spring Coat) 03 – Casual Trench 04 – Short Trench 05 – Pea Coat 06 – Pea Coat (Vintage Style) 07 – Pea Coat (Marine Style) 08 – Pea Coat (Military Style) 09 – Duffel Coat (Traditional) 10 – Duffel Coat (Off-White) 11 – Duffel Coat (Canvas) 12 – Balmacaan Coat (Traditional) 13 – Balmacaan Coat (Used Style)
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Shirts by Ryuichiro Shimazaki

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This book is can be bought in the French or Japanese language

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Six Magazine is Moving…

30 Jun

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Twice a year I took the train to Paris, just so I could get my hands on the next issue of Six Magazine by Comme Des Garçons, the most inspiring magazine at the time.

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In 1988, Comme des Garçons founder and creative director Rei Kawakubo created bi-annual creative journal Six (and abbreviation of Sixth Sense), presenting her own work alongside that of other artists, photographers, designers and writers. The magazine closed its doors in 1991, by which time it had become an institution for the Japanese brand, and it’s now the subject of a stylish new iPad app. Moving Six takes an interactive look back into the archives, still a source of inspiration for Rei Kawakubo, packed with photos by Steven Meisel, Minsei Tominaga and Karl Blossfeldt, all tinted and enhanced especially. Be inspired.

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Yukio Nakagawa Flower arrangement

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Comme des Garçons’ Moving Six app

Comme des Garçons presented a brand new iPad application in 2012, exploring the world of Six magazine, edited by designer Rei Kawakubo from 1988 to 1991.

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(most pictures in this post were published in Six Magazine, the other pictures are also related to Comme des Garçons)