The Amish intrigue me, because they make the most beautiful handicraft. I’ve been a craftsmen myself, since I was very young and I am still improving my skills. At school, I was the best in crafts-classes and eager to learn everything about needlework, knitting and sewing. My love for manual skills makes me curious for all/new techniques (like the embroidery with shoelaces) and I am always customizing, because of my different way of looking at things. If I had to choose between making or wearing my clothes, it would be would making, because it gives me such a kick!

The Amish women wear over-the-knee dresses and black or white hats, because they must have their heads covered when they come to God. The white ones are for prayer, which they almost wear all the time. Jewelry is not allowed. Men wear straw hats in summer, the black cloth hats are only worn at certain occasions. Their shirts are coloured in earth tones ,trousers are dark and hold in place by suspenders plus they have vests and simple suit jackets. In the older order of the Amish they never used buttons and buttonholes, but hooks and eyes to close their garments, called Häftler, this name is also used as a nickname for the Amish. The men have to grow beards after they are married, but aren’t allowed to grow a moustache, because moustaches are linked to militaries in the army and Amish are pacifists. Plain Fabric without patterns is a must and never the colour red, I couldn’t unravel why…. Their clothes are inspired by lower and middle-class in central Europe, 17th and 18th century. Most people think, they still make their own clothes, but nowadays they buy their clothes at special Amish clothes stores.

The Amish way of dressing has definitely had an influence on fashion, like all folkloric costume. The simple and devout look is detectable in early collections by Comme Des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto. Ann Demeulenmeester was inspired by the Amish for her men’s collection summer ’09.

And the Dior Homme autumn/winter collection 2011/’12 had an Amish feeling too.

In february 2008 Vogue Italia published a fashion story by Steven Meisel, called Country Style, but could have been called Amish Style…The next post will be about Paul Harnden Shoemakers, who is an devoted craftmen himself and his clothes and shoes are absolutely brilliant!!!

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Paul Harnden started out as a shoemaker, more than 25 years ago. He’s all about handcrafted items and an old school style of manufacturing. The first time I visited Dover Street Market (a ‘department store’ by Comme Des Garçons in London. www.doverstreetmarket.com) I saw a pair of shoes, brilliant in style and making, I would have loved to buy them, even if only for looking at, like pieces of art. Laced up, old-fashioned, low booties with wooden heels…I can still picture them. I was so excited, I forgot to write down the name on the label, but I am quiet sure they were of the collaborated collection of Paul Harnden and Comme des Garçons…

Some time later, I visited my friend, who works in a designer store and showed me the new brand the store was selling; Paul Harnden Shoemakers. She told me, the designer used to be a shoemaker, who now also created a clothing division. The clothes silenced me completely, brilliant, beautiful, phenomenal, genius… The level of craftmanship is beyond compare!

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Pictures above from:    (http://le-21eme.com/category/designers/paul-harnden/#/page/1)

In an interview in 2010, John Galliano said: ‘He’s an English boy… he’s very Greta Garbo. He does rough kind of tweed and stuff. I buy all my stuff from him. I believe he lives in England by the sea.’

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By now more is known about Paul Harnden. He was born in Canada, lives in Brighton, England and is pretty willfully obscure. His company, Paul Harnden Shoemakers ltd’ sells to a tiny, elite, culty group of stores, like Dover Street Market in London, Envoy of  Belfast in Ireland, If in Soho, L’Eclaireur in Paris and Van Ravenstein in Amsterdam. His aesthetic is very wrinkly, fantastically well-made clothes and handmade shoes inspired by Civil War, pre-Industrial Revolution  /English country and Amish.

In 2000 he started his clothing division, Paul Harnden Clothiers with co-founder Elena Dawson, she was an instrumental part of the design, concept and business until 2006, when she started an independent clothing and shoe label. www.elenadawson.co.uk

Lately Paul Harnden is ‘getting out there’ a bit, like at the release party of Some/things magazine chapter005 at Dover Street Market  november last year, where he presented his super 8 film ‘Pattern mill’. He gave his first ever interview to Derek Thomson and talked about the pattern mill & its director, Gordon Hawley. In the interview comes very clear his passion and admiration for craftmanship…

[…DEREK THOMSON / HOW ABOUT YOUR CLOTHES, WHERE ARE THEY MADE?
PAUL HARNDEN / THERE ARE THESE SMALL MILLS IN ENGLAND WE WORK WITH. THEY DO TEST WEAVING BASICALLY. WE COME UP WITH AN IDEA, A DESIGN, & WE GO TO OUR WOOLEN MILL & THEY GO TO THE PATTERN MILL TO HAVE IT WOVEN UP, ON A VERY NARROW LOOM. THEY’LL DO A SAMPLE OF JUST A COUPLE OF YARDS. I’LL SAY ‘I WANT TO DO A HERRINGBONE WITH THESE PURPLE & BROWN COLOURS, & WE WANT TO RUN A STRIPE OF RED THROUGH IT. I WANT TO SEE IT IN A FEW VARIATIONS ON THAT THEME.’ THEY’LL RUN A FEW DIFFERENT COLOURS THROUGH A TEST PIECE OF CLOTH THAT THEY PUT ON THE LOOM— IT’S CALLED A BLANKET, A PATTERN BLANKET. IT’S A SINGLE PIECE OF CLOTH WITH 12 DIFFERENT COLOURWAYS. DID I SHOW YOU one WHEN YOU CAME IN HERE?
DT / YES. IT WAS A DARK GREY WORSTED. IT WAS FASCINATING. SOME OF THE SHADES I COULD BARELY TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN. BUT I IMAGINE WHEN YOU LOOK AT IT, ONE JUST FEELS RIGHT OR NOT.
PH / YOU GET A FEELING, AN INTUITION. IT’S LIKE ALCHEMY, BECAUSE WHEN YOU CHANGE one SHADE, OR one WEAVE, IT CHANGES IT COMPLETELY. I FEEL AS IF I SHOULD HAVE DONE A DEGREE IN WEAVING & FABRIC TECHNOLOGY, BECAUSE I’M TRYING TO DESIGN CLOTH & IT’S GOING THROUGH A DESIGNER AT THE WOOL MILL, WHO THEN GOES TO A PATTERN MILL, & THE IDEAS CAN SOMETIMES MISS, & SOMETHING COMES BACK & IT’S COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. IT’S VERY UNPREDICTABLE. YOU CAN’T IMAGINE & PREDICT HOW THE CLOTH IS GOING TO TURN OUT REALLY. I MEAN, YOU CAN TO A CERTAIN EXTENT, BUT IT’S STILL A LARGE MEASURE OF CHANCE & ALCHEMY. ANYWAY, IT’S A VERY LONG STORY ISN’T IT, THE YARN & EVERYTHING… IT’S TERRIBLE BECAUSE THE WOOL MILLS ARE RELYING ON THE YARN MILLS & THE YARN MILLS ARE RELYING ON THE FARMERS & THE SHEEP & EVERYTHING. IT’S A WHOLE CHAIN, ALL INTERCONNECTED, & IF one OF THE LINKS FALLS OUT, IF THE YARN DYERS OR THE PRODUCERS STOP, THEN THE MILLS ARE UP A CREEK. IT’S ALL GONE TO CHINA. IT’S BEEN DEVASTATED. THE DEVASTATION STARTED AFTER THE second WORLD WAR; IT JUST STARTED GOING DOWN AFTER THAT. IT’S JUST A MIRACLE SOME ARE STILL GOING.
  WE’RE PRODUCING A FILM ABOUT THE PATTERN MILL & ITS DIRECTOR, GORDON HAWLEY. IT’S JUST AMAZING THAT IT’S STILL HAPPENING LIKE THAT IN 2011. I MEAN, IT COULD BE A HUNDRED YEARS AGO, COULDN’T IT? THE MACHINES ARE ANCIENT. THEY’VE GOT ABOUT 40 LOOMS GOING AT ONCE. THERE ARE MILLIONS OF MOVING PARTS ON JUST one OF THESE LOOMS. IF JUST one COTTER PIN BREAKS, YOU CAN IMAGINE— WHEN IT GOES WRONG, IT REALLY GOES WRONG. & ALL IT TAKES IS A HEALTH & SAFETY GUY TO COME IN & SAY ‘WE’RE CLOSING IT DOWN, IT’S TOO NUTS’ & IT’S OVER. WE’RE MAKING THE FILM TO RECORD IT FOR POSTERITY. IT’S PART OF OUR HERITAGE. THESE THINGS TAKE GENERATIONS TO DEVELOP, & THEY’RE GONE IN A SECOND AREN’T THEY? I’M REALLY PROUD OF THE WAY THEY’RE WORKING THERE. I JUST WANT TO RECORD IT. THEY’RE NOT MAKING THAT MUCH MONEY, IT’S ON A WING & A PRAYER, YOU KNOW. & WHEN GORDON RETIRES, THE HISTORY IS GONE. THIS IS THE LAST PATTERN MILL IN THE WORLD…]
  www.someslashthings.com

Pete Cunningham commented on Paul Harnden Shoemakers post October 13, 2013

Just read your very interesting article on Paul Harnden…………..I worked with him, and Helena, in 2005 and 2006 when he was doing specially commissioned fabrics with Fox Bros of Wellington (Somerset), where I was Designer at that time.       He liked to go through the archive books (some dating back to 1779), looking for his ‘inspirations…..and he really could ‘tweak’ original new concepts from those old swatches….we made some amazing fabrics for him during those years.       The other thing that stands out for me, is that he used to take the fabric from us straight from the loom (unwashed!!!, unfinished!!!) which was almost unheard of because it is during finishing that fine woollen / worsted fabrics transform from a raw, rough commodity to a thing of beauty!! — not for him though, he explained to us that he would “bury the cloth underground for several weeks and let nature do the finishing work”!!! — which is how the fabrics achieve his ‘antique’ appearance.

Finally, I left Fox Bros myself in 2007, after six VERY interesting years, (so I don’t know if they are still doing fabrics for Paul) and I am now based in Yorkshire, near Huddersfield, where the old pattern weaving mill is located…….Gordon Hawley is now retired, but the mill is still going strong – now run by a very nice guy called Adrian (sorry his surname escapes me)……..in fact they are weaving some of the blankets I design for my current employer, Lassiere Mills, of Bradford.

Hope this info is of some interest, Pete Cunningham.

Paul Harnden

A while ago my friend asked me to join him to go to The Battle of Les Sapeurs. I didn’t know what to expect and he had to convince me to come. I am so glad he did, because it was a fantastic spectacle.

The battle was between dressed up and  overdressed  flamboyant black man showing of their outfits. They didn’t even bother to take of the price tags, or rather show of the price tags and  the labels inside the clothes. Lots of Dries van Noten, like the man in the pink suit, Gucci, Cavalli, Yohji Yamamoto and Prada. One of the Sapeurs must have been inspired by John Galliano’s look… It was a hysterical and funny event. I wanted to know more about this phenomenon.

In 1922, G.A. Matsoua returned from Paris to Congo with a suitcase filled with French clothes and became the first known Sapeur. But the SAPE cult of style movement, Société des Ambianceurs et Personal Élégants, got really popular in the 1960s and 70s thanks to musician and singer Papa Wemba, who traveled multiple times to Paris to buy French fashion and developed an exaggerated and flamboyant style of dressing.

A Sapeur is a non-violent person and stands for an exquisite morality. They represent an illusion, supported by the government itself, trying to normalize a post-war situation. The SAPE interrupted its activities from 1997 till 2002, because of the civil war.

Sapeurs hold to European Haute Couture as religion, which is practised in absolute serious. Old school Sapeurs saved up years to be able to afford outfits. They often started out renting or borrowing suits. The younger generation doesn’t want to wait that long and aren’t fussy when it comes to a source of income.

Being a Sapeur is very expensive, so the dark side of this movement is the length some Sapeurs go to get their expansive clothes. Some have resorted to illegal means to obtain their suits and even have spent time in jail. Papa Wemba himself has spent time in jail, because he illegally smuggled Congolese man and women into Europe for a shopping spree, disguised as members of his band.

Within the SAPE movement are rivalries and affiliations, Paris versus Brussels, Brazzaville versus Kinshasa and Bacongo versus Mungali. This expresses into total fashion warfare… The Brazzaville Sapeurs follow a three colours rule and in Kinshasa it’s all about  going overboard. It was at one of these battles, I got introduced to Les Sapeurs.

 Sapeurs consider themselves artists and are respected and admired. They get invited to events such as weddings to add a touch of elegance. Being a sapeur is not only about dressing impeccable, it is about style and gestures too. The cigar is the ultimate symbol for the Sapeur, although some Sapeurs never smoke their cigars.

Ofcourse there is a contradiction between the poverty in Congo and the eccentricity and extravagance of the Sapeurs, but in this post I look at the SAPE movement from a fashion point of view. To read more about the political and cultural background go to

www.soulsafari.wordpress.com/tag/les-sapeurs/

Book

‘Gentlemen of Bacongo’ ,with a introduction written by Paul Smith.

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to order :   http://www.amazon.com/Gentlemen-Bacongo-Daniele-Tamagni/dp/190456383X

Kirsten Owen has been my favorite model, since the first picture I saw of her. I am pretty sure it’s the picture above, by Peter Lindbergh, for Vogue Italia. What makes her so special to me is difficult to explain, but I’ll try..

She started her modeling career at the age of 17 , when she almost immediately appeared on 3 different covers of ELLE magazine at the same time, in Italy, France and Spain. Something unheard of for a newcomer in the business. Photographers love her for her eyes and androgynous appeal and designers for her ability to add something extra to the clothes, a quality not many models have… she is not just a pretty woman.

I like her, because she has a punky glamour, naturel beauty and  mystique in her face. When showing Haute Couture, she makes it look more ‘wearable’. In portraits she captures my eyes and makes me wonder what on her mind. She can make basics look like high fashion and high fashion less extraordinary…

I just want to show some of her work, because I admire her beauty.