Collection A.G.Nauta couture A/W 2022

23 Jul

Photo’s by Arij Den Otter, Devastator

Gallery

Collection S/S 2018 A.G.Nauta couture

3 Feb

Photography :  Astrid Zuidema     www.astridzuidema.com

Model:              artist/decorator  John Biesheuvel

 

Vanessa Paradis, Singer-Songwriter, Musician, Actress, Model & incredibly Sexy

18 Nov

vanessa-paradis-black-white-french-vogueVanessa Paradis, ph. Inez & Vinoodh , Vogue France
.

Vanessa Chantal Paradis (born 22 December 1972) is a French singer-songwriter, musician, actress, model and since 1991 a spokesmen for Chanel.

Short Biography


paolo-roversiph. Paolo Roversi

.
Vanessa Paradis is daughter to interior designers Corinne and André Paradis. She began to develop her singing career at age seven when her uncle, record producer Didier Pain, helped her appear on the local television program, a talent show for child singers.

She recorded her first single, “La Magie des surprises-parties”, in 1983 and performed it in an Italian festival in 1985. Although not a hit, it paved the way for the song with which she became internationally famous, “Joe le taxi“, in 1987 when she was 14. It was No. 1 in France for 11 weeks and, unusually for a song sung in French, was released in the United Kingdom, where it reached No. 3. It was taken from her first album M&J (it stands for Marilyn & John).

Vanessa Paradis

90s

In March 1989, at age 16, Paradis left high school to pursue her career.

She released the album Variations sur le même t’aime in 1990, containing a remake of the Lou Reed song “Walk on the Wild Side“. The album was written by acclaimed French composer Serge Gainsbourg, whom she met when she received the best singer award at Les Victoires de la Musique, on 4 February 1990. The same year, Paradis won the César Award for Most Promising Actress for her role in Noce Blance.

In 1991, she promoted the fragrance Coco for Chanel. In the advertisement, she was covered in black feathers, portraying a bird swinging in a cage. The advert was shot by Jean-Paul Goude. 

In 1992, Paradis moved to the United States to work with Lenny Kravitz, whom she also dated at the time. The new album was her first in English. Written and produced by Kravitz, the album, titled Vanessa Paradis, topped the French chart. One of the singles from it was “Be My Baby“, which made number 5 in France and gave her another Top 10 hit in the UK.

In March 1993, Paradis started her first international tour, the Natural High Tour. In April 1994, she filmed Élisa, under the direction of Jean Becker. Elisa was a big success in France, and was released internationally.

From 1997 on, she played in movies with the great French actors/actresses.

Ligne Cambon, Chanel handbags

Chanel's Ligne Cambon

Chanel's Ligne Cambon

The New Mademoiselle, Chanel handbags

ph. by Karl Lagerfeld

chanel-new-mademoiselle-by-karl-lagerfeld

vanessa-paradis-and-chanel-new-mademoiselle-bag-gallery-1

In 2004, Paradis promoted Chanel’s new handbags called Ligne Cambon. The next year, she modeled for Chanel again for The New Mademoiselle handbag. In 2008, she modelled for Miu Miu.

Miu-Miu Fall/Winter 2008

Ph.Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott

mert-alas-and-marcus-piggott

miu-miu-mert-alas-marcus-piggott

miu-miu-mert-alas-and-marcus-piggott

Vogue Paris cover

d6aa3d3610ac68e64741c200ad519a0b ph. by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott
.

Paradis released a new album (Divinidylle) in 2007. She started the Divinidylle Tour in October. Paradis won two ‘Les Victoires de la Musique‘ awards for this album in February 2008. 

Canadian film director Jean-Marc Vallée cast Paradis in a starring role in his film Café de Flore, in which she plays the single mother of a down syndrome child in the 1960s. She garnered a Genie Award for Best Actress in a Leading Role at the 2012 Genie Awards.

Vanessa Paradis

In 2010 she became the face of Chanel’s new lipstick, Rouge Coco. She also became the face of their new handbag line, Cocoon. 

Paradise’s 2011 international tour included performances in the United States, Canada, the United Kingdom, Europe and Turkey.

In May 2013, Vanessa Paradis released a new album, Love Songs. And this year she starred in the movie Yoga Hosers with her daughter Lily Rose (by ex-husband Johnny Depp), as a history teacher. She also was a member of the main competition jury of the 2016 Cannes Film Festival.

Vogue Paris December/January ’15/’16

ph. by Inez & Vinoohd

vanessa-paradis-vogue-paris-december-2015-cover3-624x814

Vogue cover

Vogue Cover

Vogue Paris Vanessa Paradis, Inez & Vinoohd

Vogue Paris Vanessa Paradis, Inez & Vinoohd

photo-inez-est-vinoodh-vanessa-paradis-vogue-paris-december-2015january-2016

Vogue Paris Vanessa Paradis, Inez & Vinoohd

Vogue Paris Vanessa Paradis, Inez & Vinoohd

vanessa-paradis-by-inez-vinoodh-for-vogue-paris-december-january-2015-2016-9

.

;

info: wikipedia

 

bruce-weberVanessa Paradis by Bruce Weber

 

 

Stella Jean, self-taught Italian-Haitian Designer

23 Oct

Stella Jean

Stella Jean (born 1979) is an emerging Haitian-Italian fashion designer and former model, whose cultural identity often provides inspiration for her eponymous label.

Jean was born and raised in Rome to a Haitian mother, Violette Jean, and an Italian father, Marcello Novarino. She studied political science at Sapienza University of Rome, before dropping out to model for Egon von Fürstenberg, fashion designer and ex-husband of Diane von Fürstenberg. It is here where she realized that she would rather make the clothes than wear them.

F/W 2012-’13 collectionstella-jean f/w 2012-'13

stella-jean f/w 2012-'13

stella-jean f/w 2012-'13

stella-jean f/w 2012-'13

She began receiving attention at Italian Vogue’s “Who Is On Next” contest in 2011, when she won second place, after she twice failed to qualify. Jean was rewarded with €5,000, which gave her the chance to establish her label and produce her next collection, which she showed in Rome, with the help of a Milan-based showroom. ‘It was pretty tough at the beginning. I didn’t even know how to buy fabric, pay factories, how much fabric was needed, and so on. But I had constant support from Alta Roma and the editors at Italian Vogue.’

Jean has since garnered the support of industry heavyweights, such as Suzy Menkes , and most of all, Giorgio Armani , who personally selected her spring/summer 2014 collection to show at his 550- Teatro show space in Milan, as well as lending his communications team – the first time he has ever shared both with another designer.

S/S 2013 collectionStella Jean s/s 2013

Stella Jean s/s 2013

Armani’s gesture proved to be a cornerstone moment in her career. The collection that Jean sent down the runway was full of bold colours and mismatched patterns in ladylike 1950s and 60s silhouettes. The models wore knotted fabric headbands and coloured flowers in their hair, shirts were knotted over colourful bras, waists were nipped in and the oversized accessories were as riotous as the clothes. Jean took her final bow wearing a T-shirt that read grazie mr armani. They had met two days previously at an event organised by Italian Vogue and Jean was so overwhelmed that she cried in front of him. ‘I felt so small talking to such a giant,’ she told me. During the show he wasn’t sitting in the front row, but appeared backstage to congratulate her. He had watched from behind the scenes and loved it.

S/S 2014 collection Stella Jean s/s 2014

Stella Jean s/s 2014

Stella Jean s/s 2014

Stella Jean s/s 2014

Stella Jean s/s 2014

 

For her spring/summer 2014 collection, Jean travelled to Burkina Faso, west Africa, with the International Trade Centre’s Ethical Fashion Initiative, a United Nations project, to source local fabrics in underprivileged areas. She met artisan weavers and embroiderers and, overwhelmed by the wealth of talent, returned home brimming with hand-woven striped fabrics and ideas. In April 2014 she was selected by the Victoria and Albert Museum in London to exhibit several outfits in its Glamour of Italian Fashion 1945-2014 exhibition.

S/S 2015 collectionStella Jean s/s 2015

Stella Jean s/s 2015

F/W 2015 collectionStella Jean f/w 2015-'16

Stella Jean f/w 2015-'16

Stella Jean f/w 2015-'16

Jean’s heritage and family continue to inspire her. For womenswear she cites photographs of her mother and grandmother, hence the 1950s and 60s silhouettes of her clothes, with a cinched-in waist and exaggerated fullness at the hips. For her menswear line she draws on memories of her late father’s classic Italian style. She calls it a ‘wax and stripes philosophy’: the wax fabrics from her mother’s heritage combined with the stripes from her father’s shirts from Turin. She describes her own personal style as ‘mannish’. ‘I do wear feminine circle skirts on occasion, but I’m usually dressed like a man, often in men’s clothes. I was very close to my father so I wear some of his things. And I love Church’s shoes.’

S/S 2016 collectionStella Jean s/s 2016

stella-jean-ss-2016

F/W 2016-’17 collectionStella Jean f/f 2016-'17

Stella Jean f/f 2016-'17

stella-jean-fw-2016

S/S 2017 CollectionStella Jean s/s 2017

Stella Jean s/s 2017

Stella Jean s/s 2017

Stella Jean s/s 2017

Stella Jean s/s 2017

The Gansey, originally designed for Fishermen.

2 Oct

Gansey

To me the sexiest outfit for a man is a (preferably hand-knitted) woollen sweater and corduroy trousers. The most beautiful sweater of all is the gansey or guernsey, originally designed for fishermen.

.

History

The Guernsey’s knitting industry  can be dated back to the late 15th century when a royal grant was obtained to import wool from England and re-export knitted goods to Normandy and Spain. 

The gansey came into being as a garment for fishermen who required  a warm, hard-wearing, yet comfortable item of clothing that would resist the sea spray. Using a tightly spun 5-ply worsted wool (popularly known as “Seamen’s Iron”) the intricately patterned gansey is knitted in one piece on five steel needles. The patterning to back and front and, in some cases, the upper part of the sleeve provides an extra layer of protection, while the combination of seamless construction, fine wool and tight knitting produced a garment that is both wind and waterproof. Indeed, every part of the garment is designed with practicality in mind.

Ganseys

Ganseys

The gansey came into being as a garment for fishermen who required  a warm, hard-wearing, yet comfortable item of clothing that would resist the sea spray. Using a tightly spun 5-ply worsted wool (popularly known as “Seamen’s Iron”) the intricately patterned gansey is knitted in one piece on five steel needles. The patterning to back and front and, in some cases, the upper part of the sleeve provides an extra layer of protection, while the combination of seamless construction, fine wool and tight knitting produced a garment that is both wind and waterproof. Indeed, every part of the garment is designed with practicality in mind.

The wool is knitted tightly so as to “turn water”; the lack of seams ensures greater strength and impermeability; the underarm gusset allows freedom of movement; the lower sleeves where most wear is sustained, are left plain so the worn part can be unravelled and re-knitted, while the patterning across the chest provides extra insulation. Note that the patterning is the same, back and front. This means that the gansey is reversible, so that areas which come in for heavier wear, such as the elbows, can be alternated. They were traditionally knitted by the fishermen’s wives and the pattern passed down from mother to daughter through the generations.

Knitting ganseys

Through trade links established in the 17th century, the gansey found favour with seafarers around the British Isles, and many coastal communities developed their own “ganseys” based on the original pattern. Whilst the classic gansey pattern remained plain, the stitch patterns used became more complex the further north the garment spread, with the most complex evolving in the Scottish fishing villages. The knitting patterns were important to  be able to identify men after a ship had sunk…..

It’s arguable that the use and wearing of ganseys throughout the British Isles for over a century and a half almost justifies the gansey for qualification as a national costume.

The ganseyTypical gansey worn by east coat Britain fishermen

.

Two styles of Gansey exist: a plain “working” gansey and a “finer” example that was generally saved for special occasions and Sunday-best attire.  The “working” gansey design was kept simpler in order to reduce the amount of time and materials needed to produce. The sale of knitted garments to supplement family income was important to many island families and thus the garments that were sold were also of a simple design. It is estimated that a total of 84 hours was needed to complete a gansey: a simpler design could be produced faster than a more elaborate one.

The gansey that is still produced on the island retains much of the original design and patterns. The rib at the top of the sleeve is said to represent a sailing ship’s rope ladder in the rigging, the raised seam across the shoulder a rope, and the garter stitch panel waves breaking upon the beach. As a working garment, the gussets under the arm and at the neck are for ease of movement, as are the splits at the hem. Twenty-four principal patterns have been identified in Cornwall alone, each one again drawing inspiration from ropes, chains, waves, nets and sand-prints.

Ganseys with different knitting patternsDutch ganseys with different knitting patterns

.

Worn as a source of pride and often knitted by prospective wives “to show the industrious nature of the woman he was about to marry”, the “finer” gansey was more elaborately patterned than its working cousin. 

The gansey’s tightly knitted fibres and its square shape, with a straight neck so that it could be reversed, make it a particularly hardy item of clothing. It is not uncommon for a gansey to last several decades and be passed down in families. Guernseys knitted for children were knitted to be “grown into” and often came down to the knee.

Shetland ganseyShetland gansey

.

.

Book

In the Netherlands all fishing-villages had their own knitting pattern for ganseys.


Book cover

 

Dutch gansey

Gansey from Katwijk Gansey from Dutch village Katwijk

VISSERS TRUIEN

A Dutch book about ganseys with 60 knitting patterns 

To order for € 24,95 at :     http://www.forteuitgevers.nl/boek/visserstruien

.

.

order

a traditional gansey, hand-knitted in one piece

http://www.flamboroughmanor.co.uk/flamboroughmarine/

.

.

Gansey