Leigh Bowery inspired Designers, Photographers & a Painter (Part two)

16 Nov

 

Leigh Bowery, ph. Nick KnightLeigh Bowery, ph. Nick Knight
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Leigh Bowery was an Australian performance artist, club promoter, actor, pop star, model, and fashion designer, based in London. He is considered one of the more influential figures in the 1980s and 1990s London and New York City art and fashion circles influencing a generation of artists and designers. His influence reached through the fashion, club and art worlds to impact, amongst others, Meadham Kirchhoff, Alexander McQueen, Lucian Freud, Vivienne Westwood, Boy George, Antony and the Johnsons, John Galliano, the Scissor Sisters, David LaChapelle, Lady Bunny plus numerous Nu-Rave bands and nightclubs in London and New York City which arguably perpetuated his avant garde ideas.

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Leigh Bowery inspired them all:

Fashion Designers

Leigh Bowery - Alexander McQueen
Leigh Bowery – Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen  
Alexander McQueen
Alexander McQueen
Leigh Bowery - Alexander McQueen
Leigh Bowery – Alexander McQueen
alexander-mcqueen
Alexander McQueen
Leigh Bowery - John Galliano
 Leigh Bowery – John Galliano
galliano
 Trojan, Leigh Bowery – John Galliano
John Galliano
John Galliano
John Galliano 2
John Galliano
Trojan& Leigh Bowery - Junya watanabeTrojan & Leigh Bowery – Junya watanabe
junya watanabe
 Junya Watanabe
Junya watanabe
Junya Watanabe
Junya Watanabe
 Junya Watanabe
Leigh Bowery-Martin Margiela
Leigh Bowery – Maison Martin Margiela
margiela
Maison Martin Margiela
Maison Margiela haute couture fall 2013
Maison Martin Margiela 
Martin Margiela
Maison Martin Margiela
Leigh Bowery - Martin Margiela
Leigh Bowery – Maison Martin Margiela
Leigh Bowery gareth pugh
Leigh Bowery – Gareth Pugh
gareth pugh
 Gareth Pugh 
gareth pugh
Gareth Pugh
jean paul gaultier
Leigh Bowery – Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean paul gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier 
Leigh Bowery - Michael Clark
Leigh Bowery – Michael Clark
Photography by Sølve Sundsbø
Photography by Sølve Sundsbø
 
 

 Artists

boy george as leigh boweryBoy George 
beth-ditto-leigh-boweryBeth Ditto
 

Lucian Freuds Paintings

Lucian-Freud-and-Leigh-Bo-010-712589
 Leigh Bowery & Lucian Freud
Leigh Bowery 1991 by Lucian Freud 1922-2011
   
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Leigh Bowery by Lucian Freud
 
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Books

 Leigh Bowerybook cover

With the Australian artist Leigh Bowery (1961-1994), this catalog devotes itself to one of the most colourful border crossers of the London club, fashion, and art scene of the 1980s and 1990s. Bowery made his sexuality a means of aesthetic expression, and he consciously used his own body in his excessive abundance as an artistic media. His costumes, masquerades, and travesties investigate the concepts of fashion and the body at the boundaries to the most diverse social fields. Bowery employs his own physical bulkiness as the starting point of an extroverted body cult in which the concepts of ugliness and beauty, social standardisation and border crossings intersect. The result was an art figure which influenced in various areas. Bowery thus inspired Lucian Freud to one of his most fascinating nude paintings.He was discovered by the London art dealer Anthony d’Offay in 1988 and this was the start of a cooperation with the Photographer Fergus Greer who would accompany him until his early death in 1994 resulting from an HIV infection.

Editor: Kunstverein Hannover, René Zechlin, Ute Stuffer
Artists: Leigh Bowery

http://www.artbooksheidelberg.com/html/detail/en/leigh-bowery-978-3-86828-033-3.html

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Leigh Bowery: The Life and Times of an Icon

book cover

The definitive biography of one of modern art’s most provocative vanguards Leigh Bowery was one of the most controversial and avant-garde performers of his generation. In this fascinating biography, author Sue Tilley, one of Bowery’s closest friends, lays bare the extravagant life of the trendsetting entertainer. From Bowery’s groundbreaking costumes and performance art, to his notoriety in London’s 1980s nightclub culture, to his role as a favored model for painter Lucian Freud, Tilley’s engrossing portrait offers insight into the outrageous world of 1980s modern art and the man who came to embody it. This ebook features a new postscript by Sue Tilley and an illustrated biography including rare photos from the author’s personal collection.

http://www.amazon.com/Leigh-Bowery-Life-Times-Icon/dp/0340693118

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Leigh Bowery Looks

book cover

Leigh Bowery is back. In just a few years, Leigh Bowery Looks rose to the status of being the definitive and indispensible guide to the unique looks designed and, in these photographs, worn by Bowery. This paperback version shows one of Britain’s most heroically ambitious yet underappreciated designers and performance artists. Bowery remains an inspiration to many contemporary fashion designers, though few are willing to admit it. Leigh Bowery Looks contains 300 photographs of Bowery–an extraordinary body of work that was the outcome of his collaboration with British photographer Fergus Greer between 1988 and 1994, the year of Bowery’s death. Here the range of Bowery’s many looks is most evident, as are the ways in which he has influenced the world of fashion today.

http://www.violetteeditions.com/books/previously_published/Leigh_Bowery_Looks.html

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Leigh Bowery

book cover

 

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Robert-Violette_146

Robert-Violette_147

Robert-Violette_153

http://www.violetteeditions.com/books/previously_published/Leigh_Bowery.html

 

ole_christiansen_leigh-bowery-webLeigh Bowery, ph. Ole Christiansen
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The legend of Leigh Bowery (Part one)

9 Nov
Leigh Boweryleigh Bowery, ph. Fergus Greer, Novenber 1988
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My friend Eddy (De Clercq) has shared many memories with me about his famous club RoXY in Amsterdam, my favorite hangout for years. Some of the memories involve Leigh Bowery, artist, dancer, designer, creator of nightclub Taboo  and professional provocateur.

Curious about this man, his amazing creations and stage performances, I found a documentary called The Legend of Leigh Bowery, which contains footage Eddy told me about, like the act The Birth and the weird wigs Leigh wore as daywear…

leigh-bowery-womanLeigh Bowery with assistant Nicola Bateman, ph. Fergus Greer
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Short Biography

Leigh Bowery  was an Australian performance artist, club promoter, actor, pop star, model, and fashion designer, based in London. Bowery is considered one of the more influential figures in the 1980s and 1990s London and New York City art and fashion circles influencing a generation of artists and designers. His influence reached through the fashion, club and art worlds to impact, amongst others, Meadham Kirchhoff, Alexander McQueen, Lucian Freud, Vivienne Westwood, Boy George, Antony and the Johnsons,  John Galliano, the Scissor Sisters, David LaChapelle, Lady Bunny plus numerous Nu-Rave bands and nightclubs in London and New York City which arguably perpetuated his avant-garde ideas.

From a young age, Leigh Bowery (born 26 March 1961) felt alienated from his conservative surroundings. He first learned about London and the New Romantic scene through British fashion magazines. 

c838c4d0b925bd687936ce8002a580c7Leigh Bowery in I-D magazine
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Leigh moved to London for good in 1980, after taking a fashion course in high school. He became a known fixture at local clubs, in part for wearing outlandish outfits of his own design. 

In London, he soon befriended fellow clubbers Guy Barnes (known as Trojan) and David Walls. The three men moved in together, and Leigh outfitted his friends in his creative designs. The trio became known on the London club scene as the “Three Kings.”

Leigh found some success as a designer, showing several collections at the London Fashion Week show, as well as in New York and Tokyo. He was best known, however, as a club promoter and London nightlife fixture. In 1985, he opened the disco club nightclub Taboo. Originally an underground party, Taboo quickly became London’s answer to Studio 54. Taboo was known for its defiance of sexual convention, and its embrace of what Leigh called “polysexual” identities.

Leigh BoweryLeigh Bowery in Face magazine, ph. Nick Knight
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In addition to his club activities, Leigh participated in performance art and was well-connected within the art and theater circles of London. He often performed in face paint, lurex clothing and masks, relishing the opportunity to shock and flout convention whenever possible. He also served as a model, posing nude for some of Lucien Freud’s later portraits.

Leigh Bowery, who had identified as gay for many years, married his friend, Nicola Bateman (something to do with papers he needed), in May 1994. Only a few close friends were aware that Leigh had contracted AIDS before his death from AIDS-related illness, which occurred in London on New Year’s Eve in 1994, seven months after his marriage.

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 Leigh Bowery Series by Fergus Greer

leigh bowery by fergus greer

leigh bowery by fergus greer

Leigh Bowery by Fergus Greer

Leigh Bowery by fergus greer

leigh bowery by fergus greer

leigh bowery by fergus greer

 

THE LEGEND OF LEIGH BOWERY (2002)

Leigh Bowery: indisputably an embodiment of the 1980’s club scene in London and a provocative influence for a generation of artists.  The creator of Taboo – in more ways than the infamous nightclub – injects an outrageousness that inspired Boy George, Damien Hirst, Rifat Ozbek… the list goes on. The list is topped off with Charles Atlas, the man behind the camera for this amazing documentary

The documentary is also named in the Top Ten Cult Fashion Documentaries of Dazed & Confused magazine…. (http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/16863/1/top-ten-cult-fashion-documentaries)

 

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Leigh Bowery

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Info: http://www.biography.com/people/leigh-bowery-20943343#early-life

Pam Hogg reached what’s called Cult Status

2 Nov

pamhogg_home

Pam Hogg, ph. by Jamie Morgan
 

…Scots-born musician and designer Pam Hogg has dressed the queens of rock and pop as often as she has appeared amongst them. Once a support act for The Pogues and Debbie Harry, she has fronted bands performing a wide range of music; from rockabilly to punk. 

Pam had an overnight rise to fame. After her studies of Fine Art and Printed Textiles at the Glasgow School of Art, where she won numerous medals, she went on to study at the Royal College of Art in London, where she gained her Masters of Art degree.

Self taught in making clothes from an early age, she caught the attention of clubland in the late seventies and early eighties which led to a career in fashion. Her creations were immediately embraced by the popular magazines of the time. She was photographed for ID, BLITZ and The Face and soon became a known fashion talent as London was named the innovative fashion capital of the world. Her first collections sold to Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Joseph in London, Bloomingdales, Bendels and Charivari in New York and independent boutiques in Paris, Italy and Tokyo.

 
I-D cover

Pam’s first catwalk show was with the collective “Hyper Hyper” in 1985. Pam and her collections gained immediate press attention. In 1989, “Warrior  Queen”, her sixth and final group show won her the cover of ID magazine. She left Hyper Hyper that same year and relocated to a small self contained shop parallel to Carnaby Street in the heart of Soho. She continued to create, produce and direct her own London Fashion Week Catwalk Shows for a further six seasons. Her clients ranged from Debbie Harry and Siouxsie Sioux to Bijork, Kylie Minogue and Paula Yates.

In 1991, Terry Wogan introduced her onto the show as “one of the  most original, inventive, creative designers in Britain” adding, “She has reached what is called Cult  Status”.

In 1992 Pam quit fashion and returned to music. Her band Doll opened for Blondie in 1993 and the Raincoats in 1994.

Between 1999 and 2001 her continued love of designing and making clothes resulted in two catwalk collections and her first Fashion Film “Accelerator” starring Anita Pallenberg, Bobby Gillespie, Patti Palladin and Pam herself.  She also clinched cameo roles from Daryl Hanna, David Soul and Primal Scream towards the end of 2002, having found a voice in script writing and film directing.

Pam hogg

Inspired by Siouxsie Sioux’s Japanese concept, Pam designed the costumes for the Ice Queen of Punk’s 2004 world tour ‘Dreamshow’. In 2006, the Spanish curator Xavier Arakistain invited Pam to exhibit in the travelling art exhibition “Switch on the Power” alongside Yoko Ono, Warhol, Leigh Bowery and Kraftwerk.

Pam also returned to directing fashion movies, which resulted in the videos ‘Opel Eyes’ and ‘Electricman’’. These were viewed by a whole new unexpected audience via youtube and myspace. This direct access and exposure regenerated a new found interest in Pam’s work and pushed her back into the spotlight resulting in media attention from magazines including Vogue and ID.

Siouxsie Sioux in Pam Hogg
Siouxsie Sioux 
fd5e14e548719314db4a9908c2ca174a
 Hogg couture in LOVE magazine
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In 2007, Kylie Minogue appeared in Pam’s black mesh metal studded cat suit in her 2 Hearts Video, Naomi Campbell modelled a Pam Hogg lycra and snakeskin printed leather catsuit in Vogue while Siouxsie Sioux wore numerous distinctive Pam Hogg signature cat suits throughout her 2008 tour and appearance on Later with Joolz Holland. During the show, Pam was interviewed and announced her inevitable return to fashion.

In October 2008, the prestigious Fashion store Browns of South Molton St London, was the first to stock the new Hogg-Couture collection. She was further asked to dress their widows for Halloween, an honour rarely given to one designer. Katie Grand’s new magazine LOVE, launched during London Fashion Week in February 2009 with a fashion feature over several pages styled by Joe McKenna solely featuring Pam’s new collection. 

pam hogg

Creative-Excellence-Pam-Hogg-4-641x1024

October 2013 Pam Hogg won an award for Creative Excellence by the Scottish Fashion Council.

 

 Wedding Dress

When model Lady Mary Charteris went backstage after a fashion show and asked Pam Hogg to create her wedding dress, Hogg’s response was a firm no. The designer had sworn off the garment. But she acquiesced, and a six-month period involving multiple references and a great deal of communication between the two followed.. (2012) 
 

The 24-year-old was accompanied inside by her father The Earl of Wemyss

Lady Mary wore a Pam Hogg design when she married her boyfriend Robbie Furze earlier this month.

Pam Hogg Fashion

Pam Hogg

Pam Hogg

Pam Hogg

Pam Hogg

Pam Hogg

Pam Hogg

Pam Hogg

Pam Hogg

Pam Hogg

Pam Hogg

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Pam’s Army

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Pam Hogg

Info official website: http://www.pamhogg.com

Hello Pretty, Pretty…….. Anita Pallenberg

26 Oct

Anita pallenberg

Anita Pallenberg (born 6 April 1944) ) is an Italian-born actress, model, and fashion designer, who is mostly known for being a Muse the Rolling Stones.

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Short Biography

Young Anita became fluent in four languages, studied medicine, picture restoration and graphic design. At 21 she met Brian Jones (an original Rolling Stone) in Munich, where she was working on a modelling assignment. After a relationship of only two years Anita could no longer deal with his drug abuse. She had become Brian’s ‘full-time geisha, flatterer, punchbag – whatever he imagined, including partaker in orgies, which Anita always resolutely refused to do. 

‘I decided to kidnap Brian. It sounds ridiculous but they even made a film about it, about kidnapping a pop star [‘Privilege’] starring Paul Jones. This was the original story, Brian seemed to be the most sexually flexible. I knew I could talk to him. As a matter of fact when I met him I was his groupie really. I got backstage with a photographer, I told him I just wanted to meet him. I had some Amyl Nitrate and a piece of hash. I asked Brian if he wanted a joint and he said yes, so he asked me back to his hotel and he cried all night. He was so upset about Mick and Keith still, saying they had teamed up on him. I felt so sorry for him. Brian was fantastic, he had everything going for him, but he was just too complicated.’
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Anita & Brian

Brian & Anita

Anita Pallenberg & Brian Jones

BrianJones_PallenbergBrian & Anita had become almost identical in style of hair and clothes
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Keith Richards later said he had to rescue Anita from Brian, because they were both on a very destructive course. It happened  during a road trip to Morocco. Brian sensed something had happened between Anita and Keith and became violent to his girlfriend again. In the end she and Keith fled from Morocco and set up home in St John’s Wood, North London.

Anita and Keith together had three children: son Marlon Leon Sundeep (born 10 August 1969), daughter Angela (her middle name, which she chose to go by after initially being named and called Dandelion by her parents), born 17 April 1972), and a second son, Tara Jo Jo Gunne (26 March – 6 June 1976), who died in his cot 10 weeks after birth.

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Anita & Keith

Anita & Keith

Anita & Keith

Family Richards

Family Richards

 In 1979, a 17-year-old boy, Scott Cantrell, shot himself in the head with a gun owned by Keith, while in Anita’s bed, at the New York house shared by Keith and her. The boy had been employed as a part-time groundskeeper at the estate and was involved in a sexual relationship with Anita. Keith was in Paris recording with the Rolling Stones, but his son was at the house when the teen killed himself. Anita was arrested; however, the death was ruled a suicide in 1980, despite rumours that she and Scott had been playing a game of Russian roulette. The police investigation stated that she was not in the room or on the same floor of the house at the time the fatal shot was fired.

‘That boy of 17 who shot himself in my house really ended it for us [Keith and her]. And although we occasionally saw each other for the sake of the children, it was the end of our personal relationship.’ 
 

Keith later declared she shared his addiction to heroin and he wanted to clean up, but had to do it without Anita. Therefore he couldn’t stay with her, she would be a huge trigger for him. In 1981, after they had split up, Keith stated that he still loved Anita and saw her as much as he ever did, although he had already met his future wife Patti Hansen.

‘I was too independent for Mick [Jagger]. I wasn’t proper enough for him. He’s a chauvinist. I wouldn’t put up with that. Keith, surprisingly, is not. Though I feel sorry for Patti [Hansen]. I love her and think she is a marvellous woman, but I would not want to be in her shoes now. It’s such a lonely existence, living with a rock ‘n’ roller. No matter how much he loves you, he will always love his music more. I know when Keith is working on his music nothing else matters to him. He can be in a room with fifty people and he won’t nothing anything but his guitar. A woman, to live with a rock star, must find her ways of independence.’

Anita Pallenberg, Bohemian Style

Anita Pallenberg

Anita Pallenberg

Anita Pallenberg

Anita Pallenberg

Anita Pallenberg

Anita & Marlon

Anita Pallenberg

 Anita studied fashion design as a mature student at Central Saint Martins in London; she graduated in 1994. After she divided her time between New York City and Europe, and sporadically appeared in public as a party DJ. She also had a clothes collection.

Anita, now 70, has retired and shares a farmhouse in Sussex with son Marlon and acts as caretaker to Keith Richards’s Redlands estate while he is out of the country in tax exile.

Marlon Richards and AnitaMarlon & Anita

Anita Pallenberg

 

Interview  

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 Movies

Anita Pallenberg appeared in more than a dozen films over a forty-year span. Most notably, she appeared as The Great Tyrant in Roger Vadim’s cult-classic sci-fi film Barbarella, and as the sleeper wife of Michel Piccoli in the film Dillinger Is Dead, directed by Marco Ferreri. She had a small part in Volker Schlöndorff’s Michael Kohlhaas – der Rebell which was filmed in Slovakia in 1969 and the 1970 avant-garde Performance in which she played the role of Pherber (actually filmed in 1968 but not released for two years). She co-wrote the script to  with Donald Cammell, but had no intention of playing in the movie. She ended up replacing the original actress at the last-minute due to a medical emergency.

Barbarella

Anita Pallenberg in Barbarella

Anita Pallenberg as the Great Tyrant in Barbarella :Hello Pretty, Pretty…..’

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Performance 

performance 1970

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Anita Pallenberg, Fashion Icon

Maddie Daisy Dixon as Anita Pallenberg, Lovecat Magazine 

photography: Sybil Steele / styling: Marisa Sidoti

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The Genius of Kate Bush

19 Oct

kate-bush

Sometimes I have to ‘disappear’ a day and lose myself in another world to get inspired. Yesterday was one of those days and this time I choose the world of Kate Bush. I read a lot about her, watched many of her music video’s and found a BBC documentary I’d like to share. 

The first time I saw the Wuthering Heights video in 1978 was a mesmerizing moment. What I didn’t realise then, was the genius of Kate Bush, who wrote the beautiful song The Man With The Child In His Eyes when she was 13 and recorded it at the age of 16! She became famous at 19 and was solely responsable for her music, her way of dancing and her looks…… 

Very young Kate Bush, stylish already

Kate Bush

Kate Bush

Kate Bush

Kate Bush

Kate Bush became one of music’s most influential women. Her tales of dashing heroes & heroines, sung in her trademark voice, marked Kate out as very different from the rest of the pop crowd.

Her appearance was another trademark, the wild auburn hair was bohemian, always curly or crimped, her wide-eyed expression was achieved with black liner around her eyes, piles of mascara and heavy grey and green eyeshadow, also Kate loved red lipstick. It all added to her status as a style icon.

Kate Bush

Kate Bush

Kate Bush

Kate Bush

Kate BushKate wearing Fong Leng, ph. Claude Vanheye 
Kate Bush
Kate wearing Fong Leng, ph. Claude Vanheye  
kate bush
  
Kate Bush
  
Kate Bush
  
Kate Bush
 Babooshka
Kate Bush
 

Her background in dance led her to mixing floaty chiffons and silks with spandex leggings and dancewear.  The ivory, floaty Cathy-dress she wore in the video for Wuthering Heights was /is a classic piece of loveliness, punk meets the Pre-Raphaelites.  

Kate Bush has always electrified fashion. Part Stanislavski, part sex-kitten, she influenced many fashion designers with her style and but few artists are played more often at runway shows.

Kate Bush, a true original.

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Watch the documentary and get inspired by this phenomenal icon

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Kate BushKate Bush, Sarah Lund acant-la-lettre