Paul Harnden
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October 13, 2013

Just read your very interesting article on Paul Harnden…………..I worked with him, and Helena, in 2005 and 2006 when he was doing specially commissioned fabrics with Fox Bros of Wellington (Somerset), where I was Designer at that time.       He liked to go through the archive books (some dating back to 1779), looking for his ‘inspirations…..and he really could ‘tweak’ original new concepts from those old swatches….we made some amazing fabrics for him during those years.       The other thing that stands out for me, is that he used to take the fabric from us straight from the loom (unwashed!!!, unfinished!!!) which was almost unheard of because it is during finishing that fine woollen / worsted fabrics transform from a raw, rough commodity to a thing of beauty!! — not for him though, he explained to us that he would “bury the cloth underground for several weeks and let nature do the finishing work”!!! — which is how the fabrics achieve his ‘antique’ appearance.

Finally, I left Fox Bros myself in 2007, after six VERY interesting years, (so I don’t know if they are still doing fabrics for Paul) and I am now based in Yorkshire, near Huddersfield, where the old pattern weaving mill is located…….Gordon Hawley is now retired, but the mill is still going strong – now run by a very nice guy called Adrian (sorry his surname escapes me)……..in fact they are weaving some of the blankets I design for my current employer, Lassiere Mills, of Bradford.

Hope this info is of some interest, Pete Cunningham.

http://www.lassieremills.co.uk/

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Matador César Rincón after a bullfight in Seville. This must be the sexiest picture ever taken of a bullfighter!

The photograph is made by Peter Müller, who was born in Peru. He studied art and architecture at Zurich university before working as assistant to photographer Bert Stern and chief camera operator under director Eddie Vorkapich. After many years living in Spain, working on major advertising campaigns and for various magazines including Vogue, he decided to look more closely at the crafts and lifestyle of southern Spain.

Two books by Peter Müller have been published, featuring photographs of Spanish bullfighter costumes.

Oro Plata: Embroidered Costumes of the Bullfight

Costumes of light

According to Spanish tradition, the bullfighter should never wear his costume outside the bullring. Published for the first time, the greatest stars of the Corrida, resplendent in their elaborately embroidered costumes, are brought to readers in a series of stunning studio portraits. Matadors dressed in gold and banderilleros wearing silver re-enact the dramatic gestures and intricate choreography of their profession, displaying the most artistic, appealing aspects of the bullfight as seen today in Spain, France and South America. Oro Plata and Costumes of light are the perfect showcase for both the colorful history and tradition of these costumes, and for the living legends of the men who wear them.

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Bullfighter’s costume influence on fashion

Ann Demeulemeester ‘matador’ jacket

Jeremy Scott designed  these sweaters for Adidas Originals

Jeremy Scott in his matador inspired Adidas Originals jacket 

Matador inspired jacket

Moschino 2012

Sarah Jessica Parker in Matador look

And last but not least, the king of dress-up, John Galliano as a Matador

My friend Eddy send me an email this week, with a link to the Christie’s  Online Auctions : The Suzy Menkes Collection. Some spectaculair garments are for sale, specially the very sought after Ossie Clark/Celia Birtwell pieces are rare to be found.

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Suzy Menkes is an iconic fashion journalist who is held in the highest esteem by designers, models, fellow journalists and fashion followers around the globe. Comprising just over 90 lots, the collection features an inspiring array of dresses, coats, skirts, jackets and accessories by a cross spectrum of the most revered names in fashion from Ossie Clark and Emilio Pucci, to Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Lacroix. All the pieces highlight Suzy’s beliefs that colour and pattern make every day joyous and that clothes are like friends: they have to complement your personality, your hopes and desires.

http://www.christies.com/

I will be away on holiday and won’t publish posts for a few weeks, but will try to publish some picture of my stay in Japan.

I’ll be back at the end of May,

Netty