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Joan of Arc, inspires because she’s a Symbol of Heroism and Strength

31 Jan
Paco Rabanne design, 1974Paco Rabanne design, 1974
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Who was Joan of Arc?

Joan of Arc, a peasant girl living in medieval France, believed that God had chosen her to lead France to victory in its long-running war with England. With no military training, Joan convinced the embattled crown prince Charles of Valois to allow her to lead a French army to the besieged city of Orléans, where it achieved a momentous victory over the English and their French allies, the Burgundians. After seeing the prince crowned King Charles VII, Joan was captured by Anglo-Burgundian forces, tried for witchcraft and heresy and burned at the stake in 1431, at the age of 19. By the time she was officially given the status holy in 1920, the Maid of Orléans (as she was known) had long been considered one of history’s greatest saints, and an enduring symbol of French unity and nationalism.

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Joan of Arc inspires fashion designers, photographers & magazines to the day, because she’s a symbol of heroism and strength

Alexander McQueen was very inspired by Joan of Arc. He based his fall/winter ’98 collection on her, but in many other collections he produced, you’ll find influences of Joan. And Sarah Burton, who is now head designer of Alexander McQueen, 

McQueen
Alexander McQueen, Joan of Arc collection f/w '98
Alexander McQueen FallWinter 200910
Alexander McQueen fw 98 'Joan'
2009-2010 Alexander McQueen

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Jean-Paul Gaultier

Jean- Paul Gaulthier Joan of Arc dress

Jean- Paul Gaulthier Joan of Arc dress

Jean- Paul Gaulthier Joan of Arc dress 1

gaultier

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John Galliano/ Dior

Haute Couture John Galliano

Lily Cole for Christian Dior

Natalia Vodianova in Christian Dior Haute Couture Fall 2006 by John Gallino

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Portayed as Joan of Arc

Emma Thompson as Joan of Arc - by Annie LeibovitzEmma Thompson, ph.by Annie LeibovitzMichelle as Joan of Arc. Herb RittsMichelle Pfeiffer ph. Herb Ritts
Alexander McQueenAlexander McQueen
044aa8e277426dce4f7fe7440076a5fcMadonna
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Marlies Dekkers

Fall/Winter 2014

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W Magazine

Dame of Thrones, ph. Tim Walker, September 2012

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My favorite Joan of Arc is Milla Jovovich in The Messenger: The Story of Joan of Arc, 1999.

Directed by Luc Besson.
Milla Jovovich as Joan of Arc from the Luc Besson movie.

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Joan of Arc inspired

Joan of Arc inspired

Katharine Hepburn, changed American Fashion

24 Jan

Cecil BeatonKatharine Hepburn, ph. Cecil Beaton
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Katharine Houghton Hepburn (May 12, 1907 – June 29, 2003) was an American actress. Known for her fierce independence and spirited personality, Hepburn was a leading lady in Hollywood for more than 60 years. She appeared in a range of genres, from comedy to literary drama, and she received four Academy Awards for Best Actress—a record for any performer. In 1999, Hepburn was named by the American Film Institute The Number One Female Star of All Time.

Katharine Hepburn

Katharine Hepburn

Hepburn was unparalleled in her ability to invent and maintain her own star image. She signed with RKO and went to Hollywood in the early 1930s when the Dream Factory was fixated on platinum blondes draped in sequins and feathers. But Hepburn was cut from a different template, and from the moment she stepped onscreen in the 1932 film A Bill of Divorcement, her unique image made her a “movie star.” Her highly-stylized personality and lanky physique signaled a radical departure from such screen sirens as Jean Harlow and Carole Lombard. Instead, Hepburn conveyed the essence of modernism—a woman who looked life straight in the eye.

Katharine Hepburn

Katharine Hepburn

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“I was a success because of the times I lived in. My style of personality became the style.”

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katharine hepburn



Book

RebelChic_KatharineHepburn_cover

Katharine Hepburn: Rebel Chic

The first book to celebrate the irreverent and original style of Katharine Hepburn — icon of stage and screen. Glamorous when she wanted to be and tomboyish when she didn’t, Katharine Hepburn developed her personal style and public image as a style rebel. Whether on stage, on screen, or in private life, Hepburn had a firm grasp on the power of her appearance. Rather than submit to studio image makers, she controlled her image and drew on her own proclivities to create a distinct antifashion persona. This book presents the famously headstrong star in a new light: as a style icon. Through images of Hepburn’s on-screen and off-screen wardrobes and essays by top fashion historians, this book reveals how modern Hepburn’s insouciance and idiosyncratic manner of dressing really was and shows her as an inspirational, self-styled counterpoint to the over-managed looks of celebrities today. Full of never-before-published images of Hepburn’s costumes and personal wardrobe, Katharine Hepburn is a refreshing look at a true fashion original..

Katharine Hepburn, ph. Richard AvedonKatharine Hepburn, ph. Richard Avedon

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Linda Evangelista as Katharine Hepburn
Ph. Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia

Linda Evangelista as Katharine Hepburn Ph. Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia

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Linda Evangelista as Katharine Hepburn Ph. Steven Meisel for Vogue Italia

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David Bowie, the Man who Inspired me the Most

17 Jan
David Robert JonesDavid Robert Jones
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This week David Bowie, the man who inspired me the most, passed away.

I am still speechless, so I’d like to share some photographs …..

David Bowie
David Bowie
David Bowie
David Bowie
David Bowie
david-bowieAs Andy Warhol in my favorite movie 'Basquiat'
David Bowie

David Bowie
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. David Bowie wearing Alexander McQueen                                                R.I.P. 

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Koos Van den Akker, Painted with Fabrics

20 Dec

Koos van den AkkerKoos Van Den Akker (March 16, 1939 – February 3, 2015) was a Dutch-born fashion designer based in New York. He was famed for his unique collaged ‘Koos’ designed clothing and notably the creator of the ‘Bill Cosby’ Sweaters.

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I think of myself as very basic . I am a craftsperson and I sew like that. I sew beautiful clothes. I am nothing more than a worker sitting behind a sewing machine. That’s where I feel most comfortable, that’s where I am the best. That’s what I do best and it’s very basic.    

 Koos Van den Akker

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Short Biography

koosin front of his store, beginning 80ties

Koos Van Den Akker was born on March 16, 1939 in the Hague, Netherlands. He taught himself to sew using a simple sewing machine and his first creation was a dress made from a white bed sheet for his sister. With a broad portfolio at just age 15 he bypassed the 18-year-old requirement age to attend the Royal Academy of Art where he studied fashion and made window displays for a department store until he was 18. He then had to spend two years in the Dutch army where his skills were recognized and a workroom in a basement was set up for him where he made clothes for the officers wives and daughters.

After the two years Koos voyaged to Paris to design window displays for the famous Galeries Lafayette but realizing he needed more formal training, in 1961 he enrolled in L’Ecole Guerre Lavigne which was located in the same building as the Christian Dior workrooms. Every year Christian Dior picked the most gifted students for an apprenticeship and in 1963 Koos was selected. After three years at Dior and learning every detail about crafting beautiful clothes he moved back to the Netherlands and started his own business opened up his first store in The Hague. But the Netherlands wasn’t ready for his designs and anything glamorous or fashionable was shunned by Dutch women so after his father’s death in 1968 Koos took off to New York.

met museum, Koos Van Den Akker

Koos Van Den Akker

1988From a sewing machine on a hotel bed and only $180 in the pocket Koos set up a string of stores including ones on Madison Avenue, Columbus Avenue, Thomson Street Soho, 10th on Bleeker and even one in Beverley Hills, LA. In the mid seventies he even had a wholesale line with a showroom where major upscale stores bought their supplies of Koos’. Overspending and stagnating sales by Koos’ business eventually led it to obtain a tax-debt of a half a million dollars.

In 1998 Koos started a label for television retailer QVC called ‘Koos of Course!’ and presented his own show with the collection selling out in 27 minutes. The line continued on QVC until his final show in February 2006.

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1974, Koos Van Den Akker

Koos Van Den Akker

Koos Van Den AkkerKoos was known for his painterly in mixing colors, patterns, and textures in unusual, often one of a kind, garments. Conservatively styled suits consisting of cardigan jackets and gored skirts might be covered with textured mixtures of fur, quilted fabric, leather strips, or pieces of wool. A dress of lace might be dramatized by bold appliqué.

Until his death Koos had a store at 1263 Madison Avenue, New York, his former location for decades and a studio in the Garment District. Koos maintained a high-profile in New York and LA. He collected a following among celebrities and much press from Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, L’Officiel, Vice Magazine and I-D.

1985, Koos Van Den Akker

Koos Van Den Akker

 

Koos Van Den Akker

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The Bill Cosby Sweater

bill-cosby-show-sweaters

Josephine Premice, a singer in the 1980s and a good friend of Koos’s, asked him to make a sweater as present for Bill Cosby. She took it to the set of The Cosby Show where Bill immediately put it on and wore it for the taping. It was an instantaneous hit

The attention gained by Cosby’s wearing of Van Den Akker’s wild collaged sweaters on television established the designer’s reputation with the rich and famous.

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 Book

Book cover

This biography and illustrated guide highlights the work of master designer Koos van den Akker and provides inspiration for bold, unique sewing creations. Chronicling the designer’s 30 years in haute couture, this book follows van den Akker from his start in the Paris workrooms of Christian Dior to his rise in the fashion world and the establishment of his own Madison Avenue boutique. Included are demonstrations for duplicating several of his construction and design techniques that offer illustrated sewing instructions and intricate details for home sewers to imitate. The designs, with their richness of texture, generosity of color, and dynamic mix of fabrics, share the full scope of van den Akker’s masterful creations.

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Koos Van Den AkkerKoos Van Den Akker at home in New York

 

Dame Zandra Rhodes, a Lifelong Love Affair with Textiles

6 Dec

Zandra Rhodes

Zandra Rhodes (born 19 September, 1940. Chatham, England) was introduced to the world of fashion by her mother, a fitter for the Paris fashion House of  (Charles) Worth and later a lecturer at Medway College of Art. Zandra studied at Medway College of Art, and then at The Royal College of Art in London. Her major area of study was printed textile design.

Zandra Rhodes Textile Designs

Textile design Zandra Rhodes

Textile design Zandra Rhodes

textile design, 1964, Zandra Rhodes

Textile design Zandra Rhodes

Textile design Zandra Rhodes

Textile design Zandra Rhodes

Her early textile designs were considered too outrageous by the traditional British manufacturers so she decided to make dresses from her own fabrics and pioneered the very special use of printed textiles as an intrinsic part of the garments she created. While teaching at art college, in 1967, she opened her first shop: The Fulham Road Clothes Shop in London with Sylvia Ayton. In 1969 she set up on her own and took her collection to New York where Diana Vreeland featured her garments in American Vogue, after which she started selling to Henri Bendel in NY, followed by Sakowitz, Neiman Marcus and Saks. In the UK, Zandra was given her own area in Fortnum and Mason, London. She was Designer of the Year in 1972 and in 1974 Royal Designer for Industry. In 1975 she founded her own shop off Bond Street London and boutique area in Marshall Fields, Chicago.

Zandra Rhodes garments in American Vogue 1970

Natalie Wood by Penati in Zandra Rhodes Vogue 1970Natalie Wood by Penati in Zandra Rhodes Vogue 1970
Natalie Wood by Penati in Zandra Rhodes Vogue 1970Zandra’s own lifestyle is as dramatic, glamorous and extrovert as her designs. With her bright pink hair, theatrical make-up and art jewellery, she has stamped her identity on the international world of fashion. She was one of the new wave of British designers who put London at the forefront of the international fashion scene in the 1970s. Her unique use of bold prints, fiercely feminine patterns and theatrical use of colour has given her garments a timeless quality that makes them unmistakably a Rhodes creation. In 1977 she pioneered the pink and black jersey collection with holes and beaded safety pins that earned her the name of “Princess of Punk”. Her posters from this period have been a continuous inspiration for make-up artists and are collectors’ items.

Zandra Rhodes Chinese Lantern

David Bailey, Vogue UK

Vogue UK March 1974

Zandra Rhodes

1968 zandra rhodes
She has designed for clients as diverse as Diana, Princess of Wales, Jackie Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor and Freddie Mercury of the rock group ‘Queen’. She has a strong following in the US, UK, and Australia.

Zandra’s dresses are the ultimate dress-up dress. Helen Mirren, star of “The Queen” wore a Zandra Rhodes when she received her award from BAFTA and Sarah Jessica Parker dressed up in a Zandra for “Sex and the City”. Her vintage pieces have long been collected by Tom Ford and Anna Sui and have been worn by Kelly Osborne, Ashley Olsen, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell.

ss 1971, Zandra Rhodes

Zandra Rhodes, 1973

1972,72 Zandra Rhodes

Zandra Rhodes

Additionally, Zandra has set up the Fashion and Textile Museum in London which was officially opened May 2003 by HRH Princess Michael of Kent. Mexican architect Ricardo Legorreta designed the museum, which is in stunning pink and orange, and already has a preservation plaque. The museum is dedicated to showing the work of fashion and textile designers from the 1950s onwards. This museum has created several notable exhibitions: “My Favorite Dress”, “The Little Black Dress”, and Zandra’s very own “Zandra Rhodes: A Lifelong Love Affair with Textiles”, which is a major monographic exhibition exploring the forty year career of the iconic British Designer herself. 

'68 '69, Zandra Rhodes

1975, Zandra Rhodes

1969, Zandra Rhodes

1973, Zandra Rhodes

1968-1969, Zandra Rhodes

Rhodes was appointed Commander of the British Empire (CBE) in 1997 and Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire (DBE) in the 2014 Birthday Honours for services to British fashion and textiles, having been invested at Buckingham Palace by Princess Anne.

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Book Zandra_Rhodes_1024x1024

The Art of Zandra Rhodes
A glamorous hardcover reprint of the 1984 edition

This book began as a record of Zandra Rhodes’ work and has become the ultimate reference book for students studying the process behind creating designs. It explains how Zandra’s ideas are translated from her original sketchbook drawing, into a textile design, and then into the final garment. It spans from the beginning of her career to 1981.

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zandra-rhodes-2015Zandra Rhodes 2015

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info:

WikiPedia

http://www.zandrarhodes.com/about