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Frida Kahlo, an icon in many ways (part 1)

20 Jan

Frida Kahlo

Magdalena Carmen Frieda Kahlo y Calderón was a Mexican painter, who is best known for her self-portraits, her tumultuous marriage to renowned muralist-painter Diego Rivera, but Frida is also famous for her significant style.

Frida Kahlo’s style of dressing and accessorizing

The most unique aspect of Frida’s style was the way she mixed different colors, patterns and textures. Although the eclectic patterns she wore together didn’t necessarily matched, they never clashed and created a one-of-a-kind look. She bought the fabrics and  took them to Indian  seamstresses. Frida also loved accessorizing to the max… She always wore lots of ornate jewelry. More is more was her style and she would wear earrings, necklaces, bangles and rings all at once.

But her hair was her most colorful accessory. She braided her locks and decorated them with brightly colored flowers and ribbons. She even wove fabric into her braided updo’s. And Frida Kahlo rocked the unibrow with pride.

Twice in her life she cut her hair short and started wearing man’s clothes. The first time when she was still a young woman trying to discover her identity. The second time was when she divorced Diego in 1940. Frida cut her hair, threw off her Tehuana costume and reclaimed her bold 21 year-old self. In Self Portrait with Cropped Hair (1940) Frida adopts a man’s suit and short hair, holding the scissors in her hand, her hair litters the floor and her eyes challenge the viewer.                                                                                                                                             .

Frida Kahlo photographed by her father

Frida Kahlo

Frida Kahlo

                                                         Frida Kahlo selfportrait with cut-off hair

Frida Kahlo facts of life

Frida was born on July 6, 1907 in Coyoacán, Mexico. When she was six, Frida contracted polio, which stunted the growth of her right leg. Despite this disability, Frida was quite the athlete growing up and participated in many sports, including boxing.

In 1925, Frida was involved in a terrible auto accident and had to spend over three months recovering in a full-body cast. Although she recovered from the injuries, she spent the rest of her life having painful relapses, which oftentimes left her bedridden.

After the accident, Frida began to paint and sought out artistic advice from Diego Rivera, whom she later married. However, Frida was a self-taught artist who was well known for her self portraits and still life paintings.

Frida was an animal lover and owned dogs, cats, monkeys and birds. Her beloved pets were often painted alongside her in her self portraits.

Frida passed away in 1954, but her paintings did not become well-known until the early 1980s. Today, her work is recognized worldwide and her life has been portrayed in numerous books and films.

Frida Kahlo painting

Frida Kahlo posing with a selfportrait

Frida Kahlo and 'The Two Fridas'painting

Frida Kahlo & Diego Rivera

Frida loved to dress up for Diego, who adored her feminine and colorful taste in clothes and jewellery.

Although Diego Rivera was 20 years older than Frida, she  called him her ‘big child.’ Frida loved Rivera, even though he was reportedly unfaithful. She once said, “I suffered two grave accidents in my life. One in which a streetcar knocked me  down … The other accident is Diego.”

The following is from a letter that Frida sent to Diego in 1940:

“Diego my love, remember that once you finish the fresco we will be together  forever once and for all, without arguments or anything, only to love one another. I adore you more than ever. Your girl, Frida (Write me).”

Frida & Diego

Frida & Diego

Frida & Diego

Frida & Diego weddingday 1929

Frida & Diego

Frida & Diego

Frida & Diego

Frida & Diego

Frida & Diego

Diego at Frida's bed

Frida Kahlo’s corsets and artificial leg

‘She had a tremendous self-confidence.  She was convinced that what she wore displayed who she was inside,’ said Alejandra  Lopez, art restorer for the painter’s home.

Frida used her clothes to disguise a life of pain, both  physical and emotional. Her long, full skirts hid a tiny, thin right  leg, and loose blouses covered the stiff corsets she wore for back  pain.

Frida selfportrait in corset

Frida Kahlo corset

Frida Kahlo's leg-prothese

Frida Kahlo’s succes in Paris

Andre Breton recognized that Frida Kahlo’s work was Surrealist in 1938. ‘The promises of fantasy are filled with greater splendor by reality itself!’ he exclaimed about her work. Breton organized an exhibition in Paris to include seventeen of her paintings in 1938. Traveling to Paris, Frida met Picasso, Duchamp, Kandinsky, and others, dazzling Parisians with her style and originality, her portrait appeared on the cover of French Vogue. She returned to Mexico feeling more sure of herself as an artist than ever before. Her pictures were selling and had earned the praise of many severe critics. Frida was not disturbed by critical comments from those horrified by her shocking themes. Frida felt uplifted by her popularity in Paris among famous artists, political figures, and writers.

Vogue cover Frida Kahlo

Frida Kahlo’s jewelery

Her earrings were elaborate drops or dangles in the traditional Mexican style,  and her necklaces often featured roughly-hewn, handmade stone beads and pendants. These styles were popular in early Central America; they were not “trendy” or in fashion at the time of Frida’s life. For Frida, they represented cultural tradition, and she wore them largely as a political statement.

In fact, it’s been said  that Frida sometimes was the brunt of jokes when she walked in public in her showy, traditional Mexican outfits and gaudy pre-Columbian jewelry. But this look, which included over-the-top traditional Mexican hair styles, was deliberately crafted by Frida as a backlash against new trends and a message of cultural preservation.

Frida Kahlo

Frida Kahlo

Frida KahloFrida Kahlo

Frida kahlo

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Next week ‘Frida Kahlo, an icon in many ways’ (part 2): an exhibition, a movie and how her look still inspires fashion photographers and designer.

Young Frida Kahlo photographed by her father Guillermo

Who doesn’t want to look like David Bowie?

13 Jan

David Bowie

“I re-invented my image so many times that I’m in denial that I was originally an overweight Korean woman.”

I am definitely not the only one, that thinks David Bowie is the most stylish man ever….. Whatever persona he became during his career, they were all incredible stylishly dressed, fantastically groomed and so well made-up. Some of his looks have become iconic.

Fashion editors, designers and photographers have often been inspired by David Bowie. In this post I want to share some the stories, photographs, a movie and an exhibition based on his style though the years.

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Tilda Swinton photographed by Craig McDean

Tilda Swinton

Tilda Swinton

Tilda Swinton

Tilda swinton

Tilda Swinton

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W magazine published a story August 2011, photographed by Tim Walker and modelled by Tilda Swinton, inspired by David Bowie in the movie ‘The Man Who Fell to Earth’

Tilda Swinton

Tilda swinton

Tilda swinton

Tilda Swinton

Tilda Swinton

Tilda Swinton

Tilda SwintonTilda swinton

Tilda swinton

Tilda Swinton

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Arena Homme+ issue 38 was dedicated to David Bowie, fabulous cover and story photographed by David Sims and modelled by Duncan Pyke

Arena Homme+ a/w 2012-13

Duncan Pyke

duncan pyke

duncan pyke

duncan pyke

duncan pyke

duncan pyke

David Bowie/ David Sims

duncan pyke

duncan pyke

duncan pyke

duncan pyke

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Dahne Guinness photographed by Bryan Adams (yes, the musician turned photographer) for Vogue Germany

daphne guinness

dapne guinness

Daphe Guinness

daphe guinness

Daphne Guinness

daphe guinness

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And ofcourse Kate Moss on the cover of Vogue Paris, photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott

Kate Moss

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Kate Moss as David Bowie photographed by Nick Knight in 2003

Kate Moss

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Designer Jean Paul Gaultier based his collection s/s 2013 on popstars including David Bowie

JPG s/s 2013

Jean Paul Gaultier 2013

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David Bowie is

exhibition

david-bowie-is

An extraordinary exhibition charting the career of British singer David Bowie will open at the  Victoria&Albert museum in London next March. The V&A is going for the bigger picture and  has announced details of the first museum retrospective for a man who is one of the most influential performers of modern times. The “David Bowie is” exhibition will feature handwritten lyrics, original  costumes and set designs alongside the 65-year-old star’s own instruments. “David Bowie is a true icon, more relevant to popular culture now than ever,”  said V&A director Martin Roth. David Bowie Is, launching on 23rd March 2013, will be running for four months.

For tickets go to the next link, don’t wait to long….!!!!

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/david-bowie-is/about-the-exhibition/

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Dave

Film poster Dave

Belgian model Hannelore Knuts portrays  David Bowie in movie ‘Dave’ by Soulwax brothers Stephen en David Dewaele

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Tilda Swinton

Lynn Yaeger, ‘Fashion makes me happy’

6 Jan

Lynn Yeager

Lynn Yaeger is a contributing fashion editor to Vogue.com and a contributing writer to Vogue. She is a former fashion reporter for The Village Voice, having worked for the paper for 30 years. Her column, “Elements of Style”, was renamed “Frock Star” in February 2007. Yaeger is also a regular contributor to The New York Times, Style Magazine, American Vogue, Travel & Leisure, and countless antiques & collectibles dealers. Lynn is also a fashion columnist for Full Frontal Fashion, a style website in association with Sundance Channel. She is known for her eccentric personal style, powdered face and dark, cupid’s-bow lipstick.

Lynn recently won first place in the National Society of Newspaper Columnists’ category of humor writing for newspapers with more than 100,000 circulation.

Lynn Yeager describes her hairdo as that of  ‘the world’s oldest French orphan’

People have asked how I get the courage to walk the streets in, say, a shredded Comme des Garçons coat over a tutu, with metallic orange hair. I owe my confidence at least in part to my parents, who were convinced I was the cutest thing on earth and told me so every single day. (Recently, seeing my reflection at a party, I could almost hear my mom saying, “Lynnie, you look so pretty!”)

Lynn Yeager

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An interview with Lynn Yeager

by Michelle Liu

You have a very distinctive signature look.  How did Lynn Yaeger become “Lynn Yaeger”? Describe your fashion philosophy. 

It evolved over the years. It is a very flapper look. Originally, I wore a lot of vintage clothes. I thought that as I got older, I would get more and more conservative, but the opposite happened.

It was a way of working out my obsession with clothing and style without actually having to pay attention to trends, because most of the time they didn’t suit me. It’s hard to say how these things happen. It’s a very organic process.

I have a two-part style philosophy, and it may seem like the two parts contradict each other but they don’t. The first part is that you should really feel free to invent yourself and wear whatever you want. And the second part is that you should spend a lot of time in front of the mirror to make sure this is the perfect rendering of what you think you want. I really like it when people make a huge effort.

Lynn Yeager

You are known for your hilarious observations about fashion and everything that influences it. How has humor shaped your view of fashion?

It’s ALL humor! I mean not all, but I really do try to take the long view of the things, see what’s fun about it, and the absurdities. It’s a question that cuts both ways. I think people like to read things that are funny.

Lynn Yeager with an expensive bag

How do you think you have influenced the New York fashion scene? 

I always hope to inspire young people who may be feeling like they are not accepted, or they are a little funny, or they are a little off the mainstream.  My hope is that by being so out-there and so much of an individual myself, that will inspire them. Also, every time I see a tulle petticoat on the runway I’m like, “They copied me!”

What are your favorite shopping destinations in New York? 

I love the Fifth Avenue department stores. I would be lying if I said I didn’t. I love both Bergdorf and Barney’s. I like the Comme des Garçons store. I like the Garage flea market on the weekends on 25th street. I go there every weekend. I’m a really compulsive shopper. I’m in stores all the time. I’m a daily shopper, let’s face it. I don’t buy that much. I feel like I’m there just for the experience.

Lynn Yeager

If I only had a day in New York, what are the things I must do?  Eating, relaxing, anything.

I’m not much of a eater. I would go shopping in the morning at the department stores, and if it was the weekend I would go to the flea market on 25th street. I think it’s fun to just walk around downtown in the Village or Nolita. It’s a great walking town. If you have never been to Century 21, you should go there.

What’s your pick for the best fashion people-watching in New York?

When the fashion shows are on, outside the shows is great, but the whole town is a fabulous array of people watching. It also depends on what you are looking for: Madison Avenue for rich people all dressed up in the latest styles; Union Square for cute kids.

Lynn Yeager

What are your must-haves when you travel?  Do you have a pre-packed suitcase? 

I have a pre-packed bag with my cosmetics and miniature toothpaste and things, but I don’t have a pre-packed suitcase. I don’t bring the sort of clothes that seem like they would be easy to travel with – I bring all my tutus and everything, and this is further complicated by the fact that I don’t check my clothes because they are too precious to me. I would have to cram all my clothes into my carry-on, and check the other bag with the things that can be replaced. It’s a bit of a nightmare packing-wise.

When I was in Paris last spring, it was really cold and I had my one coat with me. All the Frenchies had their cute little fur coats. I was like: “Damn it!  It’s not fair!” I was stuck with the same green coat everyday. I don’t plan my outfits for everyday, but the items I have with me are usually fairly elaborate.

Lynn Yeager wearing Comme des Garçons

What is your number one travel destination?

This is the most boring answer in the whole world. I like Paris, France. I know it’s ridiculous. I like everything about it: the way it looks, the things you can buy, hearing people speak French. I even like it that the French are so mean — it’s more of a challenge. I also like it when it’s not fashion week, arguably even more.

What inspires you when you travel? 

I like looking at the people when I go to a new city. I travel a lot because I also write for Travel + Leisure. A lot of times I’ll be in the taxi from the airport going to Buenos Aires or Amsterdam, I look out the window and realize I packed all the wrong things – this is how people look and I’ve got this all wrong. I would see people riding their bikes with a big sweater on. And of course I didn’t pack a big sweater. I love to observe these regional differences.

Lynn Yeager wearing Comme Des Garçons

How about any favorite travel finds? 

Tons. That’s what I do. I go shopping and buy things. I had a rule for a while to not buy clothes, only accessories, because I would buy clothes and it would not be the right thing. Lately, I’ve going off that rule and bought clothes, some more successful than others.

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Lynn  Yeager asks some questions….

some Birds of Paradise

Style Icons Suzanne Golden, Patricia Fox, Lynn Yeager, Iris Apfel and Tziporah Salamon came together for tea and a discussion about their fashion sense….

Lynn Yeager asks the group if there is a time when style failed them. Lynn: “I confess that there have been rare occasions — a business meeting, say, or a funeral — when I’ve looked at my wardrobe and thought, Why, this is a clown’s closet! Did the others ever face a similar dilemma?”Ah, indeed I have, Ms. Yeager, though I did not realize it. I have donned what I considered to be perfectly appropriate attire, only to be hounded by school children hoping to follow me to the circus.  I have arrived at business meetings only to realize that metallic green harem pants were undermining my credibility. And in these cases I have watched people’s faces pucker in disdain. Oh yes, I have. 

What to do if this should happen? Well, goslings, there is a tunnel out of this mess: dazzle them with what you are saying.  Trot out the upper echelons of your vocabulary, make eye-contact, and pretend that you feel confident.  Of course this only works if you really know what you are talking about (I also have to resist the urge to over-enunciate like Julie Andrews when my back is to the wall). But a few times I’ve been able to pull it out of the fire this way.  And it can be exciting to watch someone change their opinion of you as you speak.

A workplace can deform one’s sense of style to be sure.  An oncologist can’t really wear a sun dress, and you should never see your lawyer’s feet.

Lynn Yeager has great advice on this issue. With her extreme, Weimar Republic broken-porcelain-doll looks, Lynn says that in order to look sane when she’s gotta go somewhere and be a journalist, she always carries a very expensive designer bag.

Lynn Yeager: ‘Fashion makes me happy’

Lynn yeager

Anna Piaggi, one of the last great exotics (part 2)

30 Dec

Anna Piaggi photographed by Edland Man

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Anna Piaggi: ‘My nature has always been to be superficial’.

Manolo Blahnik dubbed her ‘The world’s last great authority on frocks’.

Anna Piaggi stated she had never been photogenic and, as she got older, she adopted Queen Elisabeth I’s technique to style her appearance, white face, cartoon features painted on like doll-cheeks and mouth, blue and silver waves on her cut-short hair (because it was better to support a small cockamamie hat).  She made the International Best Dressed List repeatedly and joined its hall of fame in 2007.

She combined history with eclecticism and electrified this with eccentricity. Her collages of garments were styled to tell a story, like her famous Doppie Pagine (D.P.) in Italian Vogue were collages of pictures which told a story.

She became a spectacle, an entertainment and both a commentary on as a remark to what was shown on the catwalks. Whatever it was, Anna had one already and had been wearing it for years. Predicting what would come next, through knowing what had come before, was her talent.

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Anna Piaggi and her husband Alfa Castaldi

Alfa Castaldi & Anna Piaggi

Alfa Castaldi

Alfa Castaldi (1926-1995) has been one of the key figures in Italian fashion photography. He started his career in the ’50s as a reporter in post-war Milan where he worked in a close relationship with Ugo Mulas. The base was the ‘Bar Jamaica’ in Brera where all the artistic and literary intelligentsia of the city used to gather in a sort of bohemian lifestyle. Alfa was a sophisticated intellectual, coming out of an academic career in History of the Arts at the University of Florence. But becoming a critic didn’t appeal to him and soon he became fascinated by the editorial world and the new photographic reportage language. So he turned to photography and started to collaborate as a free-lance with the major italian magazines of the time.

Anna Piaggi met Alfa Castaldi while working as a translator for publishing house The Mondadori Group. They got married in 1962 in New York. Alfa charmed Anna into his bohemian word and encouraged her to work in fashion. Clothes were not her original interest.

In the late ‘60s Alfa opened a studio to work on portraits, still life and fashion in association with Anna. His range of collaborations spanned from the main italian fashion magazines to weekly news magazines until Condè Nast opened the italian Vogue edition in 1969 (Novità became Vogue Italia in 1966) of which Alfa became a regular contributor.He has published two books on the italian fashion scene: “Mass moda” with Adriana Mulassano in 1979 and “L’Italia della Moda” with Silvia Giacomoni in 1984.  He expanded into advertising, creating campaigns for the likes of Giorgio Armani, Laura Biagiotti, Fendi, Gianfranco Ferré, Karl Lagerfield and Ottavio and Rosita Missoni. His magazine coverage also expanded, with his work appearing in L’Uomo Vogue, Vanity, Vogue Bambini, Vogue Sposa, and, outside the Condé Nast Publications, Amica, Panorama and L’Espresso.

Alfa Castaldi photograph of Bar Jamaica

Anna Piaggi: ‘It has been a pleasant and moving experience, thanks to the quiet determination and the pure ‘being Aries’ of Paolo Castaldi (both of us were born under the sign of Aries – Paolo on March 21st, I on March 22nd). Fate and for me, the detached but deep sensation of feeling a mother-son bond.

I’m grateful to Alfa and Paolo for this reason, too. I’ve never had children and my story with Alfa was, in a certain sense, ‘monomaniac. We shared a deep affection and the love for our jobs: my admiration for Alfa’s culture had no limits and the same can be said for his ‘entity’ through the bond between us, which gave us a mutual freedom. The shots selected by Paolo express Alfa’s spirit at its best in the world of the Bar Jamaica. I cannot help but thank Paolo and the Bar Jamaica, where I met Alfa in the late 50’s. This was a world that really belonged to Alfa; thanks to his pictures, it still belongs to him today…’

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Anna Piaggi at work

Anna Piaggi at work

Anna Piaggi at work 2

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Anna Piaggi’s Fashion-ology exhibition

Poster for Fashion-ology exhibition

Anna Piaggi Fashion-ology with Stephen Jones

Anna Piaggi Fashion-ology

Anna Piaggi Fashion-ology

The Victoria & Albert museum displayed an exhibition on Anna Piaggi in 2006, named Fashion-ology, which attracted 25.00 visitors. All items were drawn from Anna’s personal archive, which was stored in Milan. fashion-ology highlighted her extensive collection of vintage couture and designer clothing including garments by Balenciaga, Fendi, Galliano and Poiret. Drawings, photographs, faxes, storyboards and Polaroids revealed Anna’s working style and a film brought to life her extraordinary home and archive.

Anna was reluctant to spell out what she did and only very rarely showed her methodological hand. The –ology suffix which transformed the word fashion in the title was an attempt to capture her world of contradictions, her illogical logic as she called it, as well as revealed systems of frivolity, patterns and angles in her work, her algebra of intuition.

The exhibition also celebrated Anna’s love of fashion illustration, drawings by Karl Lagerfeld of her inimitable style, the dramatic spreads for Vanity magazine by Antonio Lopez (see my posts on Antonio Lopez), and a specially commissioned 3D tableau by Richard Gray, the British illustrator who for years contributed to her pages. Luca Stoppini, art director of Italian Vogue and the designer of her Doppie Pagine spreads, had together with Anna created a dramatic work especially for the exhibition. The presence of collaborators showed her loyalty and explained the thirteen ‘favourite’ outfits in the final section, created by the designers she promoted at the beginning of her career. They were displayed on a final A, painted in the bright red used by Ettore Sottsass for the 1969 Olivetti typewriter which Anna Piaggi used daily – and of course the red of her lipstick.

The Red A with 13 favorite outfits ,Fahion-ology exhibition

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Anna Piaggi and milliner Stephen Jones

Anna Piaggi & Stephen Jones

Anna Piaggi & Stephen Jones

Anna Piaggi & Stephen Jones

‘Stephen Jones is the maker of the most beautiful hats in the world’ : Anna Piaggi once said.

She was the muse of the British milliner and one of his most loyal fans. She suggested the title Stephen Jones & The Accent of Fashion, referring to the unique accent Stephen Jones brings in every new collaboration with designers.

For the exhibition  and accompanying catalogue, Anna Piaggi, paid homage to Stephen Jones in the form of a photo collage, especially designed for the exhibition. Together with Jones, Brado Fabiani and Luca Stoppini, she created a series of images of her own collection of Stephen Jones hats, in the familiar environment of her apartment in Milan.

Anna Piaggi's collage for Stephen Jones

Stephen Jones between a collection of hats he made for Anna Piaggi

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Marc Jacobs winter 2012 inspired by Anna Piaggi and Lynn Yeager

marc-jacobs-fall-winter-2012-13-08

marc-jacobs-fall-winter-2012-13-01

marc-jacobs-fall-winter-2012-13-03

marc-jacobs-fall-winter-2012-13-06

marc-jacobs-fall-winter-2012-13-09

marc-jacobs-fall-winter-2012-13-10

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Anna Piaggi by fashion illustrator Joana Avillez

Anna Piaggi, one of the last great exotics (part 1)

23 Dec

Anna Piaggi

Anna Piaggi ( (22 March 1931 – 7 August 2012) was one of the last great exotics – a fashion editor in the true and traditional sense of the word, in possession of the finest eye and, most importantly, sparkling intelligence and wit.  

This year the fashion world lost one of its true eccentrics when the scene-stealing,  print-mixing, hat-wearing, blue-haired style icon and contributor to countless fashion magazines, Anna Piaggi, passed away at age 81. A woman with a closet so over-the-top containing 932 hats, 265 pairs of shoes, and 2,865 dresses….(according to the Victoria & Albert museum)

I saw Anna Piaggi many times in Paris during fashion week and a few times I dared to go up to her, I needed to compliment her on yet another outstanding outfit. As she left a show, a crowd always stirred around to photograph her. When the Victoria & Albert museum dedicated an exhibition to Anna, I went to London with my friends. I had to experience being in a room filled with Anna Piaggi’s outfits and see all those drawings Karl Lagerfeld made of her. I cherish the memories.

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Anna Piaggi and Vern Lambert

Anna Piaggi & Vern Lambert

Bohemian fashion in the ’60s meant regular trips to London and there Anna met dandy antique clothing dealer Vernon Lambert (born in Melbourne Australia 1 August 1937 and died Milan Italy 19 August 1992). Together, dawn after dawn, they would set off torch in hand to trawl the street markets of Bermondsey, Portobello Road and Petticoat Lane in search of treasures of fashion’s past. These weren’t destined for some museum but worn by them to surprise, inspire and please passers-by: a Mary Quant mini, worn with a Georgian waistcoat or a war officer’s jacket and a Victorian courtesan’s feathered toque. Together they played a delightful dressing-up game that lasted over 25 years and was often more entertaining and original than the catwalk fashion shows witnessed in all the fashion capitals of the world.

Anna Piaggi persuaded Vern to move to Milan in 1973, where he opened a gallery with antique clothing, aesthetic and Arts & Crafts furniture and objets d’art. His incredible knowledge – he could spot a Dior or Lanvin across a room and date it – was mixed with a love for the frivolity and joy of the subject. Holding a dress up to the light, he would tell when it was made, by whom and even when it was altered.

To Vern life was the joy of researching, seeing, making connections and sharing his passions. He became a close friend and inspiration to Karl Lagerfeld, who celebrated Vern’s last birthday with him and Anna in Paris. They admired one another and shared a curiosity for fashion in its different guises. Vern was a fantasist, but he was always modest, generous and impeccably mannered.

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Anna Piaggi And Karl Lagerfeld

Anna Piaggi & Karl Lagerfeld 4

Anna Piaggi & Karl Lagerfeld

Anna Piaggi &  Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld once wrote ‘Anna invents fashion’ (and you know that’s true when the Kaiser says it)

For a decade after their first meeting in 1974, Karl Lagerfeld and Anna Piaggi were a unit. Karl drew her regularly for years to record the combinations of the day, the mixing of vintage couture, fashion and costume. Karl appreciated her motto, to dress as performance art: ‘She was a great performer, but she is also the writer of the play’. The drawings by Karl during the ’70s and ’80s were collected into the book Karl Lagerfeld: A Fashion Journal. Later Karl and Anna also published another one  Lagerfeld’s Sketchbook. Both books are real treasures and beautiful records of Karl’s sketches and Anna’s dressing art. Nowadays they are very collectable.

Karl Lagerfeld, A fashion Journal

Karl Lagerfeld Sketchbook-cover

Karl Lagerfeld sketch 1

Karl Lagerfeld sketch 2

Karl Lagerfeld sketch 3

Karl Lagerfeld sketch 4

Karl Lagerfeld sketch 5

Karl Lagerfeld sketch 6

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Anna Piaggi photographed by Tim Walker for W magazine

Anna Piaggi by Tim walker

Anna Piaggi by Tim Walker 2

Anna Piaggi by Tim Walker 3

Anna Piaggi by Tim Walker 4

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Vogue Italia, D.P. by Anna Piaggi

D.P. by Anna Piaggi

D.P. by Anna Piaggi 2

D.P. by Anna Piaggi 3

D.P.by Anna Piaggi 4

D.P. by Anna Piaggi 5

D.P. by Anna Piaggi 6

D.P. by Anna Piaggi 7

D.P. by Anna Piaggi 8

Anna Piaggi had a long relationship with Italian Vogue as a freelance fashion editor, starting in 1969 as reporter of trends and from 1988 as creator of her famous D.P.-Doppie Pagine (double pages), also revered to as Di Piaggi. Together with her husband, Alfa Castaldi, Anna set out each month to analyze an event, a happening, a garment, an accessory, a personality or a stylist, blending text and photographs in a unique and innovative way to create visual messages of rare effectiveness, admired by journalists all over the world. These double-page spreads were the subject for Fashion Algebra, published in 1998 to celebrate the first ten years in Vogue. The book brings together the best of the Vogue ‘Doppie Pagines’. Fashion Algebra is a very sought-after item,.

Fashion Algebra bookcover

Fashion Algebra pages

Fashion Algebra pages 2

Fashion Algebra pages3

Fashion Algebra pages 4

fashion Algebra pages 5

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 Anna Piaggi was in possession of sparkling intelligence and wit

In 1978, Anna described fashion to be like a ‘trance’, telling WWD (Women’s Wear Dailey): “It’s a moment, an expression. My philosophy of fashion is humor, jokes and games, I make my own rules. I never pick up something and just trow it on my back like that. There’s a little bit of study and it’s always better if I think about what I’m going to wear the next day. And what is to be avoided at all costs is the twinset look, the total look.”

Anna Piaggi in 1987

Anna Piaggi

Anna Piaggi .

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Next week part 2, about her husband Alfa Castaldi, the Fashion-ology exhibition, Stephen Jones and Anna Piaggi’s influence on fashion of today….